45 style purfling

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tippie53
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa
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45 style purfling

Post by tippie53 »

I have a project I am finishing up and this will soon be pics galore. I won't get into the binding machine set so much but I will explain a few details before the pictures.
A get the neck set and aligned so the fretboard fits to the rosette. This is for the full blown
45 set up.
B When routing for the sides on a true 45 set up the top pearl is .0625 wide and the back and side pearl is
.049 wide. It is also .050 thick so this has to be take into consideration when doing all the cuts.
C All miters must be set before and binding is glued
D the fretboard extension is the key to this set up as is the neck heel so take your time lining this up. I don't
fight with all that purfling I make a stick with my B/W/B pearl B/W/B for the extension so I can work on
keeping all the miters tight
E the tail wedge is the trickiest part of the binding scheme so think your process through.

So here is my process
I want to do as few binding set ups so using a set up block I make my widest cuts first. You want to measure your binding and purfling and plan to be just a touch under the sides. I mentioned above that the pearl is about .050 and purflings about .060. Most poly strips can be reused do don't waist them. I use cotton thread as a shim to lift the top rim pearl if need be and I want is just a touch under to flush I don't want it proud of the top. The sides are a bit more tricky in that you need to step the cuts. I want to measure the binding width , the purflings and pearl . We know the binding is .0625 so I set up for a deeper cut but about .005 , this allows for the glue and it gives a better job than scraping the bindings so plan for the thinner cut first then raise the bit to clear for the binding and go in that .010 difference. I know this doesn't sound like much but if your using ABLAM you can sand through the show veneer . The side and back pearl will use a different binding layout so let me explain this. The top as I have above is B/W/B on both sides of the pearl. This will have a heavier black on one side. I have seen it used both ways of thin against the pearl or Heavy. I prefer the heavy. On the side we will have the B/W/B between the binding and the pearl then a B/W against the pearl and the white ending on the side.
The tail wedge can be handled many ways I have seen the framed , and I have seen them cut into the same route as the side and the pearl follows the line and you have the tail framed in B/W/B so be sure to plan this through. The neck miter gets a similar treatment so that all the side is basically framed. I don't use any CA on the binding I prefer duco but you may use what you feel comfortable with. The reason I don't is this , the poly strip can get glued in with the CA and makes removal difficult and on spruce it will stain yellow over time.
Once the binding is glued and taped in allow over night to cure. May I also add that it may be a good idea to seal the top with a coat or 2 , this makes tape removal cleaner and will avoid pulling wood fibers when removing tape. Once cured the pearl gets applied . The top and back are easy just snap into the opening. I use tite bond original for gluing in pearl. I find if you work about 6 inch at a time , you can get this in neat. I have a 6 penny nail ground much like a needle point to close up joint gaps.
On the side this is a bit trickier in that you are doing humps not curves so you need to snap the pearl into shorter pieces. I prefer snapped joints as the irregular edges don't show the joint like a straight line will. On old martins the top was high quality pearl compared to the sides and back . As you set the pearl wipe across the pearl to clean up so you don't pull it apart , keep the joints tight. Once dried don't worry so much about the gaps or void in the pearl that is a natural product you can drop fill them after the seal coats.
Take your time and don't rush . The cleaner the miters the better it looks.
GOOD LUCK pics will follow
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
tippie53
Posts: 7011
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa
Contact:

Re: 45 style purfling

Post by tippie53 »

look close you can see the step in the side rout also I am using old style wood purflings so I have to bend the side purfling. They are paired up to bend and I use aside support to keep them from twisting. The tricky part is setting the fretboard to end up with the corners on the outside ring and the corner points fall on the outside of the ring.
This is just set up once the neck is set and centered. A trick I use is once neck is set I can adjust the fretboard before gluing to get the perfect algnment.
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John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
RLR33
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed May 11, 2022 12:00 am

Re: 45 style purfling

Post by RLR33 »

I'm glad you put this up, I'm about to start a 45 style for my wife. This will help a lot. Thanks.
tippie53
Posts: 7011
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa
Contact:

Re: 45 style purfling

Post by tippie53 »

take your time , its all about the miters
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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