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Greetings,

I'm just about at the stage of gluing the bridge on my first build (stewmac 000 12 fret kit). I'm using Titebond and am worried about the bridge shifting as I clamp it. The source of my concern is the bridgeplate moved when I glued it. I used a homemade caul and thought I had everything lined up perfectly but once the clamps came off the plate had shifted a little south on one side. I can get away with that with the bridgeplate but not with the bridge.

Did I maybe use too much glue on the bridgeplate leading it to slide? Any tips on making sure the bridge stays put as I glue it? I also just got a bottle of Fish Glue - would I be better off using it? I've goofed around with it on some scraps and it seems to be a little less slippery than Titebond. Thanks for any assistance!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJG5Frbu78c&t=11s

this should help you . I use 10/32 screws

Thanks John, very helpful. The Stewmac directions say to drill the string holes after the bridge has been glued on. Your way makes a lot more sense.

Last question - do you use a backer on the bridgeplate when drilling those first two holes or is tear out not an issue with the hard maple?

Use 2 small finishing nails as pins. Position your bridge accurately and tape it down. Drill two holes on each end of the saddle slot the size of your pins down through the top. Put the pins in and remove the tape. The bridge should stay in place.
No glue the bridge using the pins to keep in there while you clamp. By the way, the Fox bridge clamp that I think LMI still sells works really well here and its not a lot of money. Saves much hassle trying to place clamps that may pull the bridge one way or the other a little. Check it out.

when I initially drill I only do a bit so the screws keep the bridge still . I use a backer of tape to drill pin hole. This also helps with avoiding tear out. May I also add USE A SHARP BIT.

A new drill bit is an awfully inexpensive insurance policy. And not HF specials either. Just like new router bits are cheap insurance.

I appreciate all of the advice. A Fox Bridge Clamp is on its way to me.

Keith

I drill the 2 outside holes and use waxed-thread bolts that double with the bridge clamp I made like the Fox. If you want to try something a little different, Stew Mac makes these

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-a ... -of-6.html

I drill the 2 outside holes and use waxed-thread bolts that double with the bridge clamp I made like the Fox. If you want to try something a little different, Stew Mac makes these

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-a ... -of-6.html

I don't wax the screws they back out nicely with the threads and don't drill through the top per se I drill to the plate that way I don't have glue mess in the guitar. Wax won't hurt anything but just prefer letting the threads do the work.
The problem with the tapered pins is they do not always fit tight , so another reason for the screws. I also used to use golf tees , you can taper them to match old bridges then I would cut them off and start a hole in them so later I would just drill them out if I couldn't pull them.
I want this to be as easy to remove and as secure as possible.