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How do y'all do this?? The binding material is Koa, about 2 mm thick (.080") and about 1/4 inch tall. I'd thought to do a curved end of some sort but may leave that for a second project!

Dan Erlewine promotes the Stew Mac tool for $33 plus shipping. Almost looks like you could make one of those... But there is still the human element.

I've just never done anything quite like this and I'm pretty sure you folks have some good tips!?

Gracias!

I simply mark the miter position and use a small japanese saw to cut each meeting end. I like and own this saw. Woodcraft carries it too.

Gyokucho Razorsaw Flush Cutting Double ... dBbH3T2TFX

I generally shave the bevels by eye with a chisel. Probably not the best way to do it, but it's quick and generally close enough. My standards may be too low.

I've also used an X-Acto razor saw and a miniature miter box.

MaineGeezer wrote:I generally shave the bevels by eye with a chisel. Probably not the best way to do it, but it's quick and generally close enough. My standards may be too low.

I've also used an X-Acto razor saw and a miniature miter box.

Did you make the miniature miter box? Do you buy those?

Diane Kauffmds wrote:I simply mark the miter position and use a small japanese saw to cut each meeting end. I like and own this saw. Woodcraft carries it too.

Gyokucho Razorsaw Flush Cutting Double ... dBbH3T2TFX

Thanks, Diane,

Not sure how I'd do that, exactly. Any pics?

Cut it close with a saw, then use a square block to trim it with a sharp chisel a little at a time. X-Acto makes a saw handle and replaceable blades, along with an aluminum miter box. It is offered under several names and here is the cheapest:

https://www.dickblick.com/products/exce ... IqEALw_wcB

Other mutations of this idea may work a little better, but cost a bunch

Ed

ChuckBarnett wrote: Did you make the miniature miter box? Do you buy those?

I'm not sure where it came from. I think X-Acto makes it though. It's aluminum.

If you polish the back side (the flat side) of your chisel, you can use it as a mirror to line up the angle by looking down the chisel at the cut. (The polish doesn't have to be "mirror bright", just clear enough that the binding can be seen.) The eye is quite good at identifying a right angle, and when the reflection is at a right angle to the binding that you're cutting, the cut will be at 45 degrees.

As I think about this, the angle I need to cut the binding is less than 45 degrees -more like 44+. (given that the fretboard is tapered...)

Wood or Platic?
For plastic I use a SHARP chisel
for wood I use fine sandpaper on a steel block. You will be surprise just how precise you can be