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Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:16 am
by twenty2late
Up to this point, all of my guitars have had plastic bindings and I've used Stewmac's Bind-All glue quite successfully.

However, the guitar I'm building now will have herringbone and curly maple bindings/trim. I imagine Bind-All is not the correct glue to use for these? Should I just use Duco cement? Or something else? Thanks.

V/R
Ken

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:20 am
by tippie53
I use duco I have no experience with the weld on. I would recommend you make a test glue up and see what that does. I use tite bond when dealing with wood . Let us know what you find.
What you do is when you route for the binding keep your set up piece and take some fall offs and glue them on and see what happens . take some pics to post and you can help others learn even if it doesn't work we all will know.

thanks again for sharing

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:45 am
by Diane Kauffmds
I use titebond for wood bindings. Since I wrap my bindings in twill tape to eliminate gaps, it gives the longest working time. I do The top, then after sufficient clamping time (with the tape), I do the bottom.

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 5:54 pm
by twenty2late
Thanks John and Diane. I was worried that any tite bond squeeze out would potentially show and/or discolor the top. I'll order some more Duco and run a few tests. I like to clamp my bindings with stretchy tape and haven't had any gap issues so far. Pretty sure that'll change now that I just said that!!!

V/R
Ken

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:26 pm
by Diane Kauffmds
As far as I know, ca glue is the only glue that's used a lot in luthiery, that discolors spruce. Titebond doesnt.

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:20 pm
by ruby@magpage.com
You might consider a couple of wash coats of shellac at the binding area. It will keep any staining from dirt or dark dust away, and will help your groove to have crisp edges.

Ed

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:42 pm
by Danl8
Diane Kauffmds wrote:As far as I know, ca glue is the only glue that's used a lot in luthiery, that discolors spruce. Titebond doesnt.
I've had some problems with Titebond III Ultimate staining wood, but no problems at all with Titebond II. I read somewhere about Tb III being problematic, however can't find the source this evening. I agree with Ed that a 1# cut washcoat does wonders keeping wood clean.

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:20 pm
by Diane Kauffmds
Danl8 wrote:
Diane Kauffmds wrote:As far as I know, ca glue is the only glue that's used a lot in luthiery, that discolors spruce. Titebond doesnt.
I've had some problems with Titebond III Ultimate staining wood, but no problems at all with Titebond II. I read somewhere about Tb III being problematic, however can't find the source this evening. I agree with Ed that a 1# cut washcoat does wonders keeping wood clean.
I've seen titebond II and III used in England in videos. Since guitars are meant to "be unglued" for various reasons, Titebond I is the recommended glue. I've never had a problem with Titebond I.

I do a washcoat as well.

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:23 am
by rcnewcomb
Titebond II discolors redwood. Titebond I gets along well with redwood.

Re: Wood bindings/purflings - Glue

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:46 am
by Diane Kauffmds
Titebond Original isn't waterproof, which is a good thing. All guitars eventually need neck resets. Since we use steam to unglue the dovetail, it's imperative to use a glue that will readily soften with water.

Titebond II is water resistant. Titebond III is waterproof. I wouldn't use Titebond II or III for building an acoustic guitar.