www.KitGuitarsForum.com

Wondering what the preferred method in regards to the bridge placement prior to finishing. Do you finish and then scrape? If so what are you scraping with? If you tape are you using any particular tape and how are you dealing with the edges of the finish along the masking?
So far I've masked, but just wondered what everybody else is doing and why.
Thanks
John

For me, I tried masking, but it didn't work because the tape interfered with the shellacking of the top. When I saw that Martin put bridges on by 'routing' the finish off (and similarly the BCG videos doing the same), I moved on to removing finish with a Dremel/Stewmac thing combined with scraping by straight edge razor blades. This method involves scoring thru the tape (Scotch 233 applied after the top finish is done), removing the tape where the bridge mates to the top and removing finish up to the scoring. The bridge contact edges are beveled allowing the bridge to sit cleanly in the scraped out area and leaving the top finish-to-bridge transition exceptionally clean. If some told me I would end up doing it this way a few years ago, I would have not have believed it.

I always tape the bridge area off precisely, but 1/32", under the bridge so that the finish looks like it continues under the bridge. When I'm done finishing, I use a #11 X-Acto knife to cut around the tape. For the straight areas, I use my 6" ruler.

This method works flawlessly for me. It has the added advantage of creating a tiny "wall" of finish around the bridge, which helps keep the bridge in place while gluing.

I apply the finish before the neck is attached, so I don't know precisely where the bridge is going to end up. After the neck is attached, I locate the bridge, mask around the outside, score the perimeter, and remove the finish where the bridge is going with paint stripper. Then I scrape/sand the area to be sure all the finish is removed and the surface is ready to accept glue.

I French Polish my tops, and prefer to scrape.

Glenn