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In order to level new frets, the fretboard needs to be nice and straight, right? If there is a back bow and the truss rod (single action rod) is loose, how do I straighten the neck/fretboard to level the frets?

How much back bow? Sometimes fretting introduces some back bow. I think you turn the truss rod counter clockwise, but I always goof up my direction. So I may be wrong. So if that does not make the back bow less turn it clockwise. Do it about a 1/4 of a turn and wait a bit for the wood to respond to the tension.

Righty-Tightey / Lefty-Loosey ~ To create a backbow or flatten the neck you need to tighten the TR.

If your strings are pulling the neck up: To flatten the board, you should tighten the TR clockwise (or, to the right), thus giving the neck...less relief. Conversely, loosening to TR, will yield more relief (counter-clockwise).

I think in the previous replies, the fact that it's a single-action truss rod got overlooked.

I've never used one, but I assume it's designed to counteract the string tension and bow the neck backward. If it's loose and the neck is already bowed back too far, put the strings on...but then you can't level the frets..... So what does one do?

Hello All.
This is what I do and use to level frets... I have done several fret jobs this way over the last several years and the results are spot on. You may find a reason to not do frets this way or even be able to talk me into changing the way I do frets... That is what this great forum is all about. Here we go...

I don't even worry about how "level" the fret board is (with in reason) and here is why... What length tool do you use to level the frets relative to the length of the fret board? If you use a tool that is at or about the same length as the fret board, you need to make absolutely sure your board is level!! If you use a tool length that is even up to or just over half the length of the fret board, you still need an absolutely flat fret board!! If you use a tool length that is about 1/4 the length of the fret board (which is what I use), then the fret board level is much less critical. I believe this is the "perfect" length tool as the fret board level is not as critical and you are still leveling several frets relative to each other, at any one time... Obviously, if you keep going and go below about a 1/4 length tool relative to the fret board length, it doesn't matter how level the fret board is because you now are leveling only a few frets relative to each other and that is not good... My fret leveling tool is an absolutely flat tool about 5"-6" in length with about 200 grit sand paper stuck to it. I took an extra richlite fret board, cut about a 5"-6" piece, ripped it in half and glued it together with the outside (perfectly flat) edges together.

How I level frets... I level the fret board (roughly), tape off all the frets, run a marker over the top of them and VERY LIGHTLY (it is amazing how little pressure you need to do this step) run the tool over the frets to the point of which a thin line of silver is showing, such that all frets are now level. Lightly and gingerly crown and polish the frets and you are done!

What do you think?...

Sincerely,
Rich

Thanks for all the advice. I'll see what I can do.

Since it is really easy to level the board before frets, and since doing this makes the frets a little closer to level once they are installed, and since this means less of each fret will be filed away, and since this means those frets will be easier to crown, leveling the fret fretboard makes sense. I might level the fretboard with the rod in the relaxed position if the curve/relief is not to drastic.

Ed

I assume you're fretting an older guitar, rather than a new build. If there is a double action truss rod, I would adjust it so that the neck is straight (counter clockwise turn), then level the frets. If you can't adjust it to flat and the back bow is a very small amount, I would just level the frets and go from there. If the back bow is considerable, I would level the board first, then fret.

I've seen one Internet reference to this issue. The individual took the neck off and clamped it to a piece of metal, that was absolutely straight. He baked it in a 170° oven. But, it was an electric guitar with a bolt on neck. I would worry about damaging the finish. Maybe John will chime in on this problem.

I level the frets using a weight . Here is a vid it may help it matters not new or old I use the same technique. When I use a weight I use 2 5lb bags of sugar or salt then adjust the rod to get the neck as straight as I can. On a 1 way rod I may set a slight back bow of about .007 from the 7th fret to the 1st this allows a little adjustment forward if needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXfyVb3L3G0
I level the frets at about 33:00