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When you finally get done with the physical build you want to think about the bridge. Where does the bridge go? I'm not a fan of masking off the bridge area. The reason I don't is that it makes for a speed bump when you are wet sanding and buffing. And it doesn't take that much to clear the footprint of the bridge.
The most accurate way to set a bridge is to MEASURE it. I don't use a jig. I want this as accurate as can be. My formula is nut (front of nut or zero fret) to 12th fret x2, plus .100 in. This is to the front of the saddle slot. A .100 saddle or heavier you can move into the center of the slot.
On a 3/32 saddle I measure to front of the bridge. On initial set up I will be about 2 to 3 cents flat, but as the guitar settles in and the bridge moves it will fall in perfectly.
If you get too cute and set up for perfect intonation on the initial set up the bridge will roll forward a touch. That will then shorten the string length causing the string to go sharp. Then as the action comes up, the variables double with the action height and the rotation of the bridge ( this causes the string length to shorten ) and you have 2 causes for the intonation to go sharp , higher action and shorter string length.

You need to plan for these variable.

A string will usually tend to go sharp as it ages. Also when you are playing, you don't take the time to fret like when you are tuning. You will inevitably bend slightly and this also pulls things sharp. Plan for this and you will find you get a better sounding guitar especially as you go up the neck.

I agree with John. No masking tape. Just too thick. However, Frisket tape is very sticky and, it is only 1 mil thick. You can mask off the bridge area with it and paint the guitar. You can sand the lacquer without removing the Frisket tape. You can buff the guitar without removing the Frisket tape. When the guitar is finally painted and buffed you can remove the frisket tape for a perfect glue footprint. And because it is so thin you will get no glue "line" or lacquer buildup around the bridge. Just google Frisket tape!

I never heard of this before thanks Sylvan.

John,
Can I ask about your original post above? Would the actual stopped length of the string stay the same regardless of the saddle thickness, and then, the measured distance (to the front of the slot or the middle) is a play of individual intonation shaping of the saddle top surface?

Another tack-on question; is there an easy way to widen the saddle slot without all the fancy jigs? (I'm sharpening my little mortise chisels -- anticipating the answer.)

Thanks,
d.

googled ... found "Grafix® All-Purpose Frisket Film".... 0.002 thick ... is this the item??? T

No. What you want at Graphix is:
Extra Tack – A .001" matte polyester film with a strong adhesive to help prevent paint seepage and edge build up. Ideal for use on cold press (rough) board, glass, plastic, metal or applications requiring more exact color control.

got it now.... thanks T ... http://www.grafixarts.com/product/frisket_film

Danl8
In answer to your question

A string length:
if I am using a wider saddle I will actually let the saddle move ever so slightly forward. A 3/32 saddle is .094 thick a saddle of 1/8 is .125 so there you have about .030 thou so you can let the saddle front about .010 to .20
that way you can make adjustments in both directions if you need.

The variable of the action height and string gauge the wider saddle allows some tweaking room both ways. If you action goes higher from initial set up you can compensate the saddle longer .

B to widen the saddle slot is very difficult if your doing it free hand.

tippie53 wrote: On a 3/32 saddle I measure to front of the bridge.

Is this the length to the 12th fret x2 +.1? Or just length to 12 x2? And can you use this measurement at both E strings to get it squared up? Thanks!

Josh

the bass is 1/8 in longer than the treble.
I measure nut to 12th times 2 plus .100

there is about a 3 degree angle on a steel string bridge. That is why the bass is longer. This angle along with the extra length is all about controlling the working length of the string to the scale length for your intonation.