filling pores before finish
Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 8:22 am
I like pore o pac it is similar to what Martin uses. It is a mineral spirit based product. I get the natural color and mix stain in it to match what I am working on.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Pore-O- ... ural/H3963
I mix 3 tablespoons or so at a time. My favorite stains are minwax special walnut, dark walnut and ebony. I add a few drops of stain and get my filler dark. I often mix these 3 together. I have also used the dark walnut alone.
I like to use a plastic fork to stir and I want it to be about the color and consistency of Hershey syrup. I will stain my guitar first, then seal it. Then filler goes on. I add a drop of naphtha for each tablespoon to aid flash time. I do one side then the other, then the back. I also hit the top with sealer. I never fill spruce, Maple or Cherry. I brush it on with a stiff brush and allow it to start to flash over. You can see the surface go from a wet look to a muddy or chocolate. Then I rub this into the wood. Martin uses a wool bonnet. I have used that also but you can hand rub it in. Burlap or any coarse material will work. You want to see little beads of the material roll up. This gets forced into the pores. I usually do this 2 times, then scrape the binding and shoot a coat or 2 of sealer, then apply finish.
The only way to get a perfect finish is to start with perfect prep.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Pore-O- ... ural/H3963
I mix 3 tablespoons or so at a time. My favorite stains are minwax special walnut, dark walnut and ebony. I add a few drops of stain and get my filler dark. I often mix these 3 together. I have also used the dark walnut alone.
I like to use a plastic fork to stir and I want it to be about the color and consistency of Hershey syrup. I will stain my guitar first, then seal it. Then filler goes on. I add a drop of naphtha for each tablespoon to aid flash time. I do one side then the other, then the back. I also hit the top with sealer. I never fill spruce, Maple or Cherry. I brush it on with a stiff brush and allow it to start to flash over. You can see the surface go from a wet look to a muddy or chocolate. Then I rub this into the wood. Martin uses a wool bonnet. I have used that also but you can hand rub it in. Burlap or any coarse material will work. You want to see little beads of the material roll up. This gets forced into the pores. I usually do this 2 times, then scrape the binding and shoot a coat or 2 of sealer, then apply finish.
The only way to get a perfect finish is to start with perfect prep.