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I am hoping that you will post some questions that as beginners would have help you when you started. I am sure our pros will be happy to help.

Getting a dovetail neck installed properly.
I curse the day dovetail neck joints were invented!

Getting the neck angle correct so that I have the right height at the bridge no sky jump no large fall off after the strings are on.

There is no secret with Dovetails the hard part is not over thinking them. If I could say one thing about them is that the neck block is one of the secrets. I started to screw the neck block to the mold and find that it helps keeping the neck block in perfect alignment.
I have gotten to the point that I have not even had to set a neck that they fall into the neck block. The method that Wayne Henderson uses is also a great way and I hope to get the process video taped some day.

tippie53 wrote:There is no secret with Dovetails the hard part is not over thinking them. If I could say one thing about them is that the neck block is one of the secrets.

I'm left scratching my head. There is no secret with dovetails but the neck block is one of the secrets?

Thank you for the response, although unhelpful, nevertheless a response and appreciated.

Frank Ford calls the Dove Tail, the joint from "hell" so even the guitar repair master agrees with you. There's a good explaination and how to do it in Bill Corey's 2nd book about building Martin style guitars.

I guess calling that a secret was poor choice. Many have learned how to do this but it is not as hard as most make it out to be. I think from what I see with the students is you tend to over work the joint and over think. It is a simple pinch joint.
While I may do a few a week many may only do 1 a year so there is a level of practice here. When you think about this, you only touch the dovetail joint after the neck has been adjust to the angle and center line.
THINK ACE
A angle
I do this first by working the heel. I want to see between 1/16" and 1/8" difference between the neck at the rim to the point of the saddle.
C Center line
You adjust that next by working the heel, so if you are off center to the bass side , you have to remove off the entire heel on the bass side. Take small bites.
E Elevation
Once the Angle and Center line are set , now you adjust the elevation and this is when you adjust the dovetail tenon. Using chalk or carbon paper you can see where the points of contact are and that is where you remove the wood. Again, tiny steps.

Shims are acceptable. Always clamp the neck together so you get as true a mate as you can
If you're using a chisel that you can't shave with, don't use it.
While the joint may seem intimidating, once you understand the contact points and what they do, it isn't that hard.
I am here to help.

Never be afraid to ask questions. I am also available on SKYPE and phone by appointment.

The following 5 segments make up the youtube video I've done on dovetail neck joints.

maxim wrote:Frank Ford calls the Dove Tail, the joint from "hell" so even the guitar repair master agrees with you. There's a good explaination and how to do it in Bill Corey's 2nd book about building Martin style guitars.

Thanks maxim. Would you say the contents of this book are well worth the cost?

tippie53 wrote: Always clamp the neck together so you get as true a mate as you can

I don't understand this.

tippie53 wrote: I do this first by working the heel. I want to see between 1/16" and 1/8" difference between the neck at the rim to the point of the saddle.

I don't understand this, either.

Thank you for uploading youtube vids. I will watch as time allows.