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Bill Cory once told me that a mistake is not a mistake if you can fix it. I hope this is one of those times!
Here’s the story… I was just getting ready to glue the bridge on to my second guitar project ( a slope Dreadnaught, martin short scale). I use the KMG bridge setter and clamp and when I reached in to attach the wing nut to the clamp bolt I saw, much to my horror, that the string holes went through the top but missed the bridge plate. The bridge plate was too small! At first I was dumbfounded “ how could I be so stupid?” After getting out my bottle of Tequila, I started going through my process. My first kit used Martin dreadnaught bracing and Martin short scale neck and fingerboard. I wanted to try something different this time, so I bought the J45 bracing template from KMG and a neck from Hanalei guitars still using the 24.9 scale. I believe my problem is that in using the Gibson J45 bracing I should have used a Gibson scale.
If my thinking is correct, I hope I can buy a neck and fingerboard with a Gibson scale and save this guitar. If not ?...
There are a large number of you who have more experience than I. What do you think?

Woody - I can give you moral support, wish I knew the answer for you. Can you guesstimate how far off the pin holes are from the bridge plate?
DaveB

Ok not the end of the world . You can take out the bridge plate . Is the plate maple?

Dave, the holes are about a 1/16 inch short of the bridge plate/

John, yes the bridge is maple.

It is easy to take out the plate and make a bigger one then glue that in. Here is what you do . Get a Cello sponge and cut it in the shape of the plate. Soak in in water 1 part white Vinegar 3 parts water . Let then sponge set on the plate over night .
It may take 2 days but the plate will saturate and soften the glue. You can test it after 24 hrs by taking a safety razor and see if you can work it under the plate. If not let it set 6 hrs and try again. I have had some take as many as 4 days .
it will come off clean ,. wipe out the glue and let set for a few days to dry out . Glue in the new plate and you will be good to go.

Hi Woody,
I took a look at the J45 print and even by design using the 24.75 scale the pin holes are only about 3/16" from the edge. DaveH and I were talking about the same issue with the L00 he is building. Seems like a Gibson norm --- anyway what he did and I suggest that you do is simply add an extension to the plate. Does not have to be very wide 1/4" - 3/8" or so. Fit it between the X and butt it tight against the piece that is already there -- no need for any removal, in my view that is not worth the risk and effort --- considering modern glue, nothing to be gained.

Adding a piece won't give you the structural integrity you need for the bridge plate. Pulling a plate is not the hard of a task . You can pull the plates easy enough and make it 100% correct.

Sorry John on this one -- I totally disagree -- a glued seam joint is stronger then the wood itself that's been proved time and time again. There is no cross grain structure loss. Plus if you take a look at some of the old time Gibsons, they even use two piece laminated bridges. And as mentioned there is not much of the plate toward the tail block "as designed." The main purpose of the plate is to prevent the ball ends from pulling through and keeping the top from spitting along the grain. To each his own -- but I would not remove the plate, to me that "for real" creates a chance to compromise the structure. And take a look at some of the modern brace and bridge plate configurations -- who's to say if something is not being done right or correctly?

Woody -- the neck attaches at the 14th fret right?

We will agree to disagree , if it were my guitar I would pull the plate