Truss rod & neck installation questions

[Phil]

I'm almost at the point of closing the box (might start later tonight!) and so working on the neck isn't too far in the future. I've read tons of information but there are a couple neck-related questions that I have.

1) I've read so many different ways of installing the truss rod that I'm a little confused as to what method to use. A little help/direction would be appreciated.... whether its advice or links to other discussions to read through.

2) The neck I have is a Martin mortise and tenon neck with a 2 way adjustable rod. From what I understand this neck gets screwed AND glued.... any pointers, pictures, general advice on gluing that joint? The neck block on my guitar is the birch laminated one (if that matters any).


Thanks for the help everyone!
Phil

[klooker]

I had a problem with the screw hole location in the block, it was too low. If you have the same problem, it will be easier to remedy before closing the box.

I used Ken's advise on enlarging the countersink inside the guitar since I already closed it up before discovering the problem.

Here's a link to the thread.
viewtopic.php?t=343

Besides that I followed the "typical" instructions about getting the alignment right, then making sure the truss rod is adjusted to straight, putting a little tite bond around the truss rod which I think is used more for a filler than an adhesive, then gluing down the fretboard.

Kevin Looker

[tippie53]

this is an easy fix for you. The truss rod is not glued in per se but I use a bead of tite bond in the bottom of the channel and on top when I apply the fretboard. I don't put in the rod till I am ready to do the fretboard on the neck and it goes in as part of that process. The purpose of the glue is just as a void filler .
A note for you is to check that the truss rod nut is accessable before you glue it in.
Good luck and let us know how you make out .

[nkwak]

Sorry to bump this old thread with another question but I think my issue is similar but with case-specific issues that might come up for others - especially if they do a scratch build like I have. With my build I have a 5-piece laminated neck with a mortise/tenon/bolt-on fitting and an LMI two way truss rod.

Here's the first issue: when I routed out the trench it was a little wider than the rod itself so there's some play. I've seen different materials used to seat the rod but the instructions have always cited that the rod must be snug. If so do I need to shim along both sides of the length with some 1/4" x .010" maple purfling? Would just putting a bead of CA or epoxy at either end hold firmly enough?

The second issue is the depth of the trench. Originally the rod sat slightly proud but I took a 1/4" chisel along the base of the trench so now it's deeper so that the top of the rod assembly is about 1mm below the surface of the face of the neck. Clearly I will need to shim this. If so, what's the best (and cheapest) material to use? I was thinking of getting some firring strips from Home Depot and cutting them to the rough dimensions. Would they work? Also, what about the width of the shim? Does it have to completely cover the truss rod on either side? I'm inclined to think "yes" on this one to presumably eliminate buzzing. Am I correct in assuming this?

Afterward I think I might have a decent grasp of the concept. I was intending to glue or epoxy the shim to the top of the truss rod and then use a block plane and scraper to bring the surface flush to the rest of the glue face for the fingerboard. If I'm wrong here please let me know.

[tippie53]

the bottom of the slot is most important as this rod design works by bending and thus distorting the neck. You may use any shim material you think works. I use glue as a filling agent .

[nkwak]

So grain orientation doesn't really matter then? Just so long as it can seal the glue from the fretboard from seeping into the trench? If so, then could I just use some balsa from a craft store?

[tippie53]

I would use something a bit harder but anything in there will work

[nkwak]

The rod in question seems to be smaller than 1/4." Like I said, I made a laminate neck with a 1/4" ply of walnut in the center flanked by two plies of 1/4" maple and everything sandwiches between two 3/4" mahogany plies.

[sylvan]

Contrary to most builders, I do not glue the truss rod in the neck nor do I use a "cover" on top of the truss rod. I thoroughly wax the truss rod before installation. Once the truss rod is positioned flush with the top of the neck, I put a piece of masking tape down the rod to cover it up when I apply glue to the neck to glue the fingerboard in position. Once the neck is prepared with glue I remove the masking tape and glue the fretboard to the neck. Before fretting I always tighten the rod a 1/4 of a turn so that it will actually leave a hump in the fretboard which is then sanded flat. Putting the rod under tension prevents any rattling that could occur. The reason I do it this way is that if, for some reason, the rod broke I can remove the bolt on neck and pull the rod out from that end of the guitar and replace it with a new one. Fixed in just a few minutes without removal of the fretboard. The reason I do it this way is because I want repairs on my instruments to be very quick and simple in the future.

[nkwak]

Sylvan, that's a great idea. I don't know if I can't do that though since I've got some play in the trench.