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I've resumed working on this 000 as I have another IRW rimset that's been stored along w/ a back that Tippie matched for me. I have an EC 1 3/4" Mahogany V-neck for it. I'd like it to be a 14-fret Short-Scale, keeping it somewhat similar to an EC model, even though it has an M&T neck joint. I've already installed a H-bone Rosette into an Adi top I bought from John Arnold. I have the H-bone purfling for it. The brace-stock I have is also Adi.
Do you think it would be OK to go w/ 1/4" bracing & should it be scalloped or non-scalloped...?

The back is already braced & I've laid out the top bracing & would like to know if I'm golden before I make a template...? The X-mark is the measurement I took from the nut to the center of the saddle (24.9"). The 2 dots on the plate are where the 2 E-string bridge pin holes would be. I recall you (John) telling me, I only need a 1/16" of bridge plate showing behind the bridge...? I have a smaller plate, but thought I'd check w/ you. The Pyramid Bridge is one that you made for me John. It's 2 3/8" spaced. From the edge of the soundhole to the center of the X-brace is 1 1/4".

the top brace layout is backwards. the tone bars come off the treble side you have them on the bass
you want the end pins at least a 1/4 in from the end of the plate to be safe. In the old 31's I have seen the front of the plate was about 1/8 in in front of the bridge and the 1 3/8 plate fell where it may.
I like a little more plate in front of the bridge than behind. I don't like to scallop 1/4 braces but you may on the tone bars.

tippie53 wrote:the top brace layout is backwards. the tone bars come off the treble side you have them on the bass

Thank you John...
I only posted the pic like that as if you were looking at X-ray of the top. So it's reversed. I'm a lefty (but play righty). I think backwards sometimes.

I re-positioned the template & placed the smaller plate in place for clarification. The smaller bridge plate I have has slight amt more than a 1/4" of wood behind the pin holes w/ less wood above than the larger plate...

if you are playing leftie you were right

tippie53 wrote: I don't like to scallop 1/4 braces, but you may on the tone bars.

Thought I'd try something a little different & went linear w/ the lower X-brace. It's 1/2" tall at the intersection. With that & what you said, I'm inclined to scallop the 'tone bars & scoop them down to 1/4"...? The Bridge Plate is a temp. It falls short, I need to make a new one.

Don't you want to flip those tone bars around? The peaks look switched to me.

Ben-Had wrote:Don't you want to flip those tone bars around? The peaks look switched to me.

Ben-Had ~ I have since pared the ends down to zero. Still debating whether or not to scallop the tone bars. I am trying to tap-tone the top. I'm hearing a dead spot where the tone bars are...dunno? The rest of the top has a good ring to it. A proper fitting bridge plate has secured down now w/ a nice piece of flame maple Tippie sent me long ago. The cloth patch also needs to be glued down.

Those tone bars look tall to me. In the picture they look taller than the xbrace in the lower bout.

Good point John...thx! 12.5 mm & 10.5 mm at the peaks. I'm going to take them down some & scallop the bars. I hope I didn't go overboard w/ the X-brace...?

RnB wrote:Good point John...thx! 12.5 mm & 10.5 mm at the peaks. I'm going to take them down some & scallop the bars. I hope I didn't go overboard w/ the X-brace...?

The xbrace looks OK in the lower bout. I was taught to leave the X brace in upper bout mostly full height as it is taking a lot of the load. You might get some other opinions on the upper bout xbrace as I never had them that low so I do not know what the effect will be. I would be afraid that the guitar will slowly start folding.

With your braces by the time they are at the lower sound hole support brace they have lost about 7/8 of the strength from the starting height. The stiffness of a brace is proportional to the cube of its height. Half the height about 1/8 the strength.