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Hi all, I haven't posted for a few weeks but my stewmac dread build has been progressing steadily and I have almost completed the body of the guitar.

I decided when I ordered the kit that I would prefer to install wood binding instead of the plastic binding that comes with the guitar so I ordered some curly maple binding at the same time as the guitar kit (I have also made the tail end graft from maple stock left over from creating the bridge plate).

It took me a while to get to the point of being able to install these bindings as never having done this before I hade to build a binding tower jig ( to use with my bosch colt and stewmac router bit) and a bending iron/hot pipe to shape the bindings.

I was surprised at how well it went, the binding channels were all cut without any major problems and are consistent all round, I cleaned the channels out prior to gluing the binding. I also managed to bend the binding strips to a reasonably close enough form to match the contour of the guitars sides and fit in all the way round.

Prior to gluing the bindings I filed off the inner corner as I have read in several posts on here and test fitted/mitered to the correct length. I glued one at a time and left them overnight to dry.

The issue I have is with the back bindings. Towards the upper bout curves I have been left with a couple of small gaps between the binding and the back of the guitar. Approx 1 to 1.5mm I'm pretty sure that applying more pressure with the tape during the glue up would have ensured these gaps never happened but it was my first attempt so I was guesssing (the bindings on the top worked out great, no gaps).

I would appreciate some advice on how to best fix/hide these?

I don't have any spare bindings and I am not really confident in taking the whole of the bindings off and trying to reglue with out the risk of damaging them (I'm in the UK and would have to order more in from stewmac if I broke one).

Suggestions on other posts I have seen include:

- using glue and wood dust from the back to hide the gap and then sand level.

- Johns post about using the sealer/finish and dust as opposed to glue and dust

- what about trying to heat/steam the areas where the gaps are and try to re clamp them/tape them? This may be a good option so long as I can do it without damaging the bindings.

They are glued with titebond.

I have included some pics which hopefully show the issue better than I can describe it.

Thanks for reading and I appreciate any advice.

Pics below...

I use a heat gun. If you used tightbond or some other PVA the heat will soften the glue then you can tape it tight. The glue cures again when it cools. The way I was taught was to put a little glue in the gap. Heat the binding with the heating gun, do not char the wood, the new glue will bubble as the wood heats. Quickly close the gap with tape or a clamp.

The other methods you listed may be safer for you and will look good. You need to be careful when you finish sand your sides. In the areas where the bindings are sticking out it is really easy to sand them too thin when sanding or scraping the binds level with the sides.

Thanks for the reply..

Unfortunately I don't have a heat gun, I have a hair dryer that I used for tape removal but I'm betting that will get nowhere near hot enough! Would a clothes iron work, I have used it previously to separate titebond joints but I wouldn't get as much control as with a heat gun and it would likely involve steam too.

I'll have a think on it, maybe the dust/finish option is the easiest option though I would like to re glue them tbh if possible.

use the same iron you bent the bindings with. you don't have to apply much pressure just let the weight of the body rest on the binding where the gap is. rock slowly several inches on either side of the gap and it will soon flex enough to pull tight with some binding tape. You'll feel when it is ready.

how thick are the binding ? I don't go more than .070. Too thick and they are impossible to get closed. I use some wood binding and I will break the inside corner of the binding. I also set the channel so it is just under the side so I sand the side to the binding , not the binding to the side. I like the top of the binding about flush to the top or back.
Now for filling , you can try a cloths iron on low heat . If you are filling you have few options but my favorite is to use a sealer or finish material . Sand some of the wood and decide , do you use the light or dark dust. I think lighter would be better as it may fool the eye that a darker line that is just a bit off color to the light may appear like a grain line on the binding.
So take some light wood and sand to make a pile of dust. Use a razor blade and work into the gap. Now drop some sealer on the area and then plop more dust on the sealer . Work that into the gap with the razor blade. You may need to do that a few times to get it flush.

I had a small gap in one of the guitars that I just finished pore filling. I purposely waited till I sealed the guitar with shellac over the Z-poxy. I did as John had told me, mix some wood dust from the top with the finish, and fill. It was a minor gap, but I am pleased with the outcome.

Glenn

Thanks for the replies.

A quick update, I was able to heat with the areas were the gaps were with an iron (just heat no steam) and then re taped them up.

The gaps are now almost completely gone, just some very small gaps which I will probably fill as per johns instructions.

Thanks again.

Glad to hear you had a good outcome.

I, too, use wood bindings almost entirely. A handy tool for re-heating them (or applying heat just about anywhere) is one of those "covering irons" that model airplane people use to shrink the wing coverings. I got one at a hobby shop for around 20 bucks, and it's been used more often than I care to admit.

Here's one on eBay right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-monokot ... 27db12d064