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This is my first attempt at re-sawing a billet and I cut my first top. It is Sinker Western Red Cedar. Not sure if it is lighting or there is run out that caused the color variation in the top. I held it up to the light and it is not as noticeable in person. Still need to work on thickness control.

The best advice I can give you is that , don't try and be cute and think you can get 4 sets when the board says 3. I would rather loose a set in the cut than loose all of them trying to get the extra .
Also often you will see that virgin cut will look different from the oxidized old side. It all matches in the end. Lots of fun making your own stuff.

The fence is everything and using a planer after every cut. I've lost wood thinking I don't have to plane, mistake!
If you don't have a good fence I can refer you to the best home built fence, out of fine wood working magazine, better than store bought mucho expensive ones.
I can cut 1/16 true in almost every timber. As long as the band saw is tuned properly. Which usually only needs to be done once on a decent band saw. I'm using a delta with rizer block. Been making furniture and veneer on it for many long time And of course tops, backs, sides etc...for awhile.

Randy
Can you post that fence design?
Ed

Tim,
Looks as though you've added another weapon to your arsenal. Good!

-tommy

Ed
The URL to fine woodworking and the fence design

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop ... fence.aspx

Patrick Sullivan's shopmade bandsaw fence is made from scraps of hardwood and plywood, and requires very little hardware. Despite these humble origins, this bandsaw fence is rock-solid, operates smooth as silk, adjusts for drift, and offers up to 9 in. of rip capacity.

They charge to use the sight but offer a free trial. Might be able to google this desighn though. I can submit pictures but never built from the plan, just used the concept.
Thanks

That link is accessible to Members Only.

-tommy