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John or anyone who might know, I'm about to drill the holes in my headstock for the Martin kit I have. I do not have any documentation on the size of hole that I need to drill.
Absent that information, where should I take the measurement on the tuning machine to get the proper hole size?
Is or was Martin using metric or fractional sized machines?
Here's where I took the measurement. I got 25/64" there, 9.93 mm, and .39 decimal inch. The machines say Martin on the back.



Thanks,
Bob

you need to get a drill card , there are many different tuners so there are no set sizes. Most tuners will use a 1/4 in post but you have the furrel and base. I would say make a test hole for the best fit.
mark your centers and drill a small pilot hole. Figure your countersinks , I am sure you will figure it out real fast.

Ok, I got out all the brad point bits I could find, picked out a small piece of cherry that was looking for work and discovered this. I have a 19/64" bit of all things. The ferrule (if that's what I think it is - the part that screws into the body of the tuner) will screw in nicely.
So, I'm assuming that they use fractional inches. I used a 3/8" bit and found I could push the body in about half way. It took a good bit of effort. I don't want to use that much effort and risk breaking the headstock or scratching it from exertion, so I'll find a 25/64" bit somewhere.

The remaining question is this: Should I run the 19/64" bit thru the headstock, and come from the back with the 25/64" bit and drill it the 5/16" that it needs to go to seat properly? Or is this overkill? Should I just use the 25/64" bit thru it all and leave it at that?

Thanks,
Bob

Does this set have press fit bushings?

No, if this is what you're saying is "press fit": http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Tune ... hings.html

Here's what I have:




Bob

I drill those straight through with a 10 mm bit. I have a Lee Valley HSS lipped brad point bit that cuts super clean. I place piece of tape on the back side and use a backer board and have virtually no tear out. If there is a little the tuner hides it. A little expensive but worth it IMHO for this job.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 2240,42247

Ben-Had wrote:I drill those straight through with a 10 mm bit. I have a Lee Valley HSS lipped brad point bit that cuts super clean. I place piece of tape on the back side and use a backer board and have virtually no tear out. If there is a little the tuner hides it. A little expensive but worth it IMHO for this job.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 2240,42247

plus one on straight through with 10mm. There is no need to be fancy as the bushing is straight and screws on.

Thank you all. 10mm bit it is. No two-stepping for me (and I'm from Texas). Now I gotta find one.
For some reason I thought I had one from previous guitar builds, but it must be hiding.
Much appreciated.
Bob