Nut files, string spacers and nut filing methods

[justrfb]

Hello All,
I am looking for some good comments and advice from you, who have gone before me on this incredible journey of taking several pieces of wood with a few other items and turning it into a beautiful to look at and sounding instrument. I got the OK from my financial adviser (read Annemarie, my wife) to go ahead with another tool purchase to finish my first build. I am in the market for tools to create a very accurate nut for my sons guitar. How many nut files do I really need? Do I need that fancy string spacing scale? How bout the dial gauge or the string lifter? Anything else I haven't mentioned? How about the best source? As always, thank you for your help and advise.

Sincerely,
Rich

[JLT]

My two cents' worth:

I've been using the "Joint File Set" I got years ago from Luthier's Mercantile many years ago (Their stock number is FISET). This set, with eight files, has been all I need for making everything from mandolins to classical guitars, and the set really isn't that expensive. If I ever get around to making that acoustic bass guitar, I'll probably have to buy another file or two for the fat strings.

String spacing scale? Well, I usually just find a guitar whose nut widths are what I want, and copy the spacing off that. (Fortunately, I have a couple of music stores in my area that have a wide selection of guitars and amazingly tolerant staffs.) But if you're out of luck in that area, or if you're trying unusual string configurations, I suppose the spacing scale would be useful.

I'm not sure what you mean by dial gauge, unless you're talking about the one measures string height off the frets. I go with a set of feeler gauges and an audio continuity tester (the description can be found at http://midtown.net/dragonwing/nutcase.htm ).

String lifter? A must. I use it all the time. In fact, I have two of them, because I was forever losing one. I hit on the idea of sticking it into a wine bottle cork (artificial ones work best) which not only makes it harder to lose, but gives you more of a grip on it.

I also use three files for fret work: A leveling file (an ordinary mill file works well if it's straight), a file for rounding off the top of the fret once it's leveled, and a file with a rounded edge for removing the burr from the end of the frets. They're cheap and pay for themselves in the long run.

Last but not least is one of those Starrett gauges that are tapered, for determining string height off the fretboard. The fourth picture in the article mentioned above shows one of these.

I'm sure that there are other indispensable gadgets that I'll be adding to this list, but most of them you can improvise or make yourself.

My usual source for specialized tools is Luthiers Mercantile or Stewart-McDonald, but eBay sometimes has people who will sell for less. They're the first place I look for things like bridge pin reamers, Starrett gauges, and the like.

@justrfb - Since none of KGF's advertisers sell nut files, I suggest you contact Josh Gemmell <info@japarts.ca>
for better pricing on the same UO-Chikyu Nut Files sold by LMI.

@JLT - Excellent pictorial and instructions. Would you mind re-posting this in the 'Online Tutorials' Forum? Thanks.

-tommy

[Darryl Young]

I couldn't find a set with the exact sizes I wanted (to fit medium gauge strings) and I ended up buying mine from Martin. Not sure if they still carry the same brand but these are quality nut files and I have the perfect sizes for a set of medium gauge strings.

[tippie53]

you can be .005 over and not have a problem

[Darryl Young]

RD nailed that post! Good info.

[tippie53]

I do it the same way as Rick. As a machinist I even made some string space tools but I much prefer the dial caliper. I will go a little farther on the nut files.
I think I tried about every gadget out there and I can tell you what does and doesn't work. Don't even bother with the flexible torch cleaners , and as for the double sided 2 sized files , When you figure the price , they are the most expensive ones out there. Also there is one on ebay that takes a feeler gauge and makes a little saw tooth on it , That will work for a few guitars but it isn't tool steel and will soon loose the edge.
I like the simple decimal sized files. Simple and they work. I will admit that I didn't try the saw files , I know the guys out at Martin in set up like them. As for setting the nut slot to the frets I admit I have a simple jig CF Martin gave me, it is a piece of shim stock with a .007 notch machined on it. I get Ricks tink test nailed every time.
Ricks advice is always sound and comes from years of experience. Thanks

[justrfb]

Wow! Imagine my surprise this morning when I logged onto the forum and saw the great responses from you. Thank you. I read them all but will need to go over them in more detail at home. Shouldn't do that here at work... Thank you again and there maybe a follow on question or two. You guys are the best. Thank you.

Sincerely,
Rich

[JLT]

I thought of another tool I've found to be indispensable: Stew-Mac's fret rocker.

I use this gadget all the time. Yeah, it's a little expensive at $25.00, but "buy once, cry once."

[sylvan]

I basically agree with Rick Davis' assessment except it is way too much math for me. Get a Proportional Divider. It is a draftman's tool before computers and eliminates all the math. One end has two points. Set this end for the distance from E to E. You can adjust its workings to find 5 equal spaces. Once that is done, just turn the divider to the other end and the two points are exactly the distance between the strings. No measuring, just point to point. Attached is a link to eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40
There are many other uses for this tool in Lutherie! Have fun!