www.KitGuitarsForum.com

I've heard that some people use Titebond for certain joints,
fish glue for some and another glue for even others. Do any
of you do this or do you stick with one type for all joints?

Thanks, Mark

Basically Runningdogs list is fine
I will add this.

What not to use.

I don't like to see CA used on porous woods as it can leave a glue signature. In fact I seldom use any CA. I have seen CA used on rosettes and in a few years you have a yellow ring.
What to use


While Rick mentions that he doesn't use Fish Glue and that is fine , I will say that this is a good substitute for HHG . I don't like to use Fish glue for wood binding, There are better glues for this Here I like tite bond. Fish glue can seep into the end grain.


Tite bond can be used for many things but avoid where it can creep. That is the one weakness of tite bond .

LMI is fine

Duco cement for gluing on binding ( Plastic to wood )

Here is a list that Rick Turner posted a while back on another lutherie forum:


Glues I use in lutherie, where I use them, and a bit about why.

Hot hide glue
Center seams for tops and backs
Gluing braces to tops and backs
Bridges on acoustic instruments
Kerfing for acoustic guitars and ukes
Tops to sides on acoustic guitars and ukes
Repair and restoration work where strong and nearly invisible glue lines are needed

Traditional, and still a favorite for many lutherie jobs. May have tonal benefits because of how hard it cures. Has better heat resistance than Titebond and other “carpenters’ glues”. Very low cold creep. Only good for well fit joints. Reversible with moist heat. New glue reconstitutes old so good in repairs of previous HHG glue work. Sands to powder, and thus not loading up of gunk on sanding belts

LMI white glue
Peghead scarf joint
Most assembly of semi-hollow guitar bodies

This glue (I believe it to be a polyvinyl acetate..PVA) has the convenience of Franklin Titebond and other “carpenters’ glues”, yet cures much harder and seems to have some of the favorable qualities of hot hide glue. It is known for low “cold creep”, a possible real factor with regard to tone and the need for neck resets on acoustic guitars.

WEST Epoxy
Laminating necks
Fingerboard joints

Developed initially for the purpose of making cold molded yachts by the Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique. Cures hard and very clear; great for bonding difficult to glue woods; does not introduce water into the glue line; joints can be taken apart with heat if need be.

Smith & Co. CPES ( Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer )
Primer for wood finishing…pre-sealer

Smith & Co. laminating and layup epoxy...a good alternative to WEST

Franklin Polyurethane
Center block to tops on semi hollow Renaissance guitars
Laminating layered “skate boards” for “back strap” peghead overlays

I generally do not use any water with the PU glue, and so it’s great for gluing the centerblocks onto cedar, spruce, or other wood tops as the glue line does not telegraph through very much. With peghead overlays, again, the lack of water makes for a stable layup without subsequent shrinkage as you’d get with the LMI white glue or HHG.

Thin Superglue
Frets
Inlay dots
Some polyester finish repair
Some binding work
Some quick repairs

Take care with accelerator as it can cause foaming of the glue. Works well with baking soda as a temporary nut slot filler when the slots are too deep.

Thick Superglue
Inlay
Some binding work
Quick repairs
Making jigs and fixtures
Bonding carbon fiber to wood

Duco and other acetone based glues
Binding (plastic/celluloid)

Can I use fish glue or titebond for gluing plates?

yes I do all the time

Sometimes too much information can be more confusing than not enough.

tippie53 wrote:yes I do all the time

Sometimes too much information can be more confusing than not enough.

Yeah! hahahah

Thanks, John!