Bindings, Purf's and CA glue

[Dan Bejnarowicz]

I thought i'd share my method on using CA glue for bindings and purfs. Actually, its not my method, rather Chris Paulick's (link to his youtube video is here). Bindings/Purflings have been a sore spot for me. A very weak point. This method brings hope to me!

Same prep is needed to make sure everything is squared, etc... I then put down a seal coat of shellac on the ledges, and about 2 inches onto the top, sides, back. Don't want the CA to get into any endgrain; and i learned the hard way to protect that top.

Then its a matter of 'a dry' tape up (This is the part i like), with tape every 1in or so. Once happy with the dry fit, get thin CA and let it wick into the joints. Take the tape off and then wick the other areas. Note: Make sure there are no open holes from the braces or kerf joints with top/back, or CA could flood into the body making a mess.

I've only worked with wood bindings, and have always had problem getting them tight on the waist. My current build (The 'modified' Bill Cory China Kit) came out very nice with some thick rosewood bindings. I'll upload a pick if anyone is interested.

dan

[Darryl Young]

This method has always intrigued me. Alas, one must seal the top to prevent staining with shellac or similar.......and it seems you are using CA to glue the bindings to shellac instead of glueing wood to wood so the strength is limited to the bond strength of the shellac. This may be just fine (I've no idea) but gave me an uneasy feeling so I didn't try it.

I used the green 3M tape to hold my bindings in place and it seemed to work great. Put a lot of tape in the waist area as a safety and it worked well. I had ivoroid bindings and used Duco cement.

[JJDonohue]

I actually use a long clamp at the waist...gets them tight every time. I've tried every method but still come back to CA as my preferred method.

[deadedith]

This method has always intrigued me. Alas, one must seal the top to prevent staining with shellac or similar.......and it seems you are using CA to glue the bindings to shellac instead of glueing wood to wood so the strength is limited to the bond strength of the shellac. This may be just fine (I've no idea) but gave me an uneasy feeling so I didn't try it.

Would someone address Darryl's concern? I can't believe that a luthier of stature such as Charles Fox would use CA/shellac if there was any issue at all with bonding strength.

DaveB

[kencierp]

Sealing before using CA ---- non-issue ---- Overhottzer sealed his soundboard and braces before gluing. Taylor seals before using CA as well --- bindings and the entire Rosette area. Not having wood to wood gluing on the bridge --- that's another thing.

http://www.taylorguitars.com/video/fact ... ing+Part+2

[Ken C]

I have used this approach on several guitars. Works great and is my preferred method to attach purflings and bindings. Note that coats of shellac are not used--Only enough to seal the grain. No way that shellac is coming off, and the CA bonds just fine to shellac. Don't worry about it.

The only downside to this I have noticed is that lighter colored bindings tend to absorb CA through the end grain and darken. You may also want to consider touching the end of your bindings near the tail graft as well as end grain of the tail graft with shellac prior to gluing in.

Ken

[tippie53]

I know many like the CA but I never leaned that way . I am too traditional . I mastered Duco for plastic binding and Like JJ i use a waist clamp on wood. CA often will glaze into softer woods. This is a case where if you found a technique you like and it works , use it .

[Dan Bejnarowicz]

...The only downside to this I have noticed is that lighter colored bindings tend to absorb CA through the end grain and darken. You may also want to consider touching the end of your bindings near the tail graft as well as end grain of the tail graft with shellac prior to gluing in.

Ken

Thanks Ken C; had not thought of that. I'll make sure to add that to my growing procedure's list!

Dan

[kencierp]

The main reason for using CA is because it dries almost instantly -- minimizing the need for tape while easily tacking down the binding/purfs to the tight curves. In my view two part epoxy is an overkill -- plus most of the two part adhesive products turn yellow when exposed to UV (a complaint seen on the Internet often).

[Tony_in_NYC]

I used CA on my second guitar. It works well, but you better hope you never need to remove the top!