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Has anyone successfully done this? What is the trick here. I know it isn't really necessary, but the finished look is worth a little extra effort - if I can figure out how to do it properly.

Any input?

how i do it:

while soundboard is still well over the final dimension and before installing the rosette I rout a channel from the top to within .5 mm or so of the back.
bend/install binding material, a scarf joint works well here, then sand from the back until the soundhole binding shows.
continue to thickness/install rosette as normal from this point.

I like Darren's approach, and may give it a try.
I've used this guy's method a couple of times with good success:

http://www.liutaiomottola.com/construct ... ndhole.htm

I used a hot curling iron clamped to my workbench to bend the soundhole binding. It works great and doesn't leave any split ends. :-)

thanks for that link Dave i like that method too. I use toothpicks placed in the channel (inside the binding) if it needs some wedging action. The wedges in the can from the link is a nice idea I might try. I do like to do this operation while the top is almost 'in the rough'.

good info - I'll look at both those methods!