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Ok Jigs are easy to make and while this is based on a table saw they can be modified.

I start with bracing stock and I make 1 sizes. 5/16 and 1/4. here is the feather board set up I use to rip the stock and set the angle of the side of the brace.

Once this process is done I like to radius the stock pieces. I use a flex jig here. I have this set for 28 foot. There is a stop , this will be the upper part of the brace , the center stop is at the thickest part of the brace right at the X juncture.

Now I have a rough shaped and radiused brace blank. There is a key to making a perfect notch. What I do is measure the saw kerf and subtract that from the thickness of the stock material. In this case I have a .305 brace and a kerf of .100 This is .205. I will make my stop block .200 . This will allow me a bit to sand off for that perfect fit . Note the stop block against the rip fence . I back my brace against the block run through the saw set up and remove the block and run the stock again .
This leaves a nib that needs to be cleared . Then I check my fit. You can adjust the angle with the miter attachment. Be sure to use a back block on the miter gauge for best results.

The final step is end taper . I use this set up for tapering the X braces. I then sand the braces and do the final bracing shaping on the top. I make all the braces starting with longest then thickest and continue from the larger braces to the smallest.

All done a pile of piece with all the bracing ready for tops. There are 75 sets of bracing made in less than 8 hrs. While it may take time to make jigs , the production and repeatability of the process can make them very useful. Hope you liked this .

That works well John. I guess if you have a custom order for a bracing scheme witha different angle, do you make these a set at a time?

yes I have some un notched stock to do custom

Great pictorial!

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this is a good post and one that warrants a review