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I suppose, like many other things, the choice to use plastic vs wood bindings is a personal thing.

Could some of you who use plastic explain the benefits?

Cost? Tradition? Ease of installation? Contrast?

Jim_H wrote:Cost? Tradition? Ease of installation? Contrast?

What installation method do you use? Glue type etc. Also at what step do you install it? After sanding the box? Seems like you wouldn't want to sand plastic binding.

*might* absorb the impact of a drop better than wood.

no pre-bending!

Well......

- White looks nice (or the off-white ivory color has it's own unique, vintage look)
- Other colors available (tortoise, coffee, black, etc.)
- Cheaper
- Less chance of gaps in binding (my guess, I haven't yet used wood but will on my current build)
- No bending required (big deal if you don't have a bender)
- Maybe gets dinged up less than wood from being banged around
- Maybe gives a little so less force is transferred to the body from dings/drops
- Allows you to copy a vintage instrument

About the only cons are that you may prefer the look of wood (often the case) and using wood creates a distinction between your handmade guitar and most factory guitars.

I use plastic for cut aways , I don't have a cutaway ram or I might try wood. For me I collected a pile of scrap martin parts, so on some I went for sound first and fancy 2nd. I wanted to build a few before I use my cocobollo and 12 fret necks. you know what I mean. I made a 1937..D 18 copy with plastic bindings that saturday night had guys with martin 2000.00 range guitars pleading with me to make them one, the thing sounds like it,s pluged in. They say everyting you put on a guitar can affect sound, so is wood better, maybe but the boodwood I used for 00-18 ended up going on in three pcs. Still looked pretty good though. I use both, but for me sometimes I want to whip one out that sounds good as easy as I can.. MARTIN uses plastic.. My 00 cents

It is more design and personal taste but there is one thing about wood , you will have to be on your game . Wood bindings tend to leave gaps. Plastic actually is best for the daily bumps . I do like to book match wood bindings it does give things a nice look.
Some people go no binding so do as you like and do it well

Ben-Had wrote:

Jim_H wrote:Cost? Tradition? Ease of installation? Contrast?

What installation method do you use? Glue type etc. Also at what step do you install it? After sanding the box? Seems like you wouldn't want to sand plastic binding.

I'm not an expert on this. I just gave it as a possible reason to use it.

I'll defer to John to answer the installation questions.

My suggestion that its easier is just simply based on the fact that it's much easier to shape as you install it, and is a lot less likely to result in gaps, especially around the waist and upper bout of the back.

I used Duco cement. After closing the box, I cut an undersized binding channel to ensure the top and back edges are recessed then level the sides (the edge of the top/back can interfere with leveling). The cut the binding channels to final dimensions and glue in the plastic binding. Then finish sand, stain (if needed), and finish. Fine sandpaper wasn't an issue on the plastic. Also, you can scrape stain or stain from sanding oily woods off the plastic. Might be some exception to that but I think that's the norm. Maybe John or others will share their experience on stain removal.

Dave,
I've never used plastic. I can see how it might be really easy to install, but personally I don't want to put plastic on my wood guitar. My plan is to stay away from plastic pick guards too if I can. Just my preference.

Kevin