I've been building a kit for a friend/my teacher, and he is recently began experiencing pain in his left hand. The build has a 16 in radius (kmg neck and block). So, naturally came to the thought of a compound radius : 12 to 16".
If I start with a 16" radius, i would think it's possible to build the 12" radius into the fb from nut to around the 7th fret and then 'blend ' in the 16".
Has anyone tried this? Any critical elements to watch out for?
Advice and thoughts most welcome!
Compound radius fb
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Dan Bejnarowicz
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moobox
Re: Compound radius fb
Gee, I'd really like to know how you'd do that. My first thought would be to buy a compound radius fb to slap onto a neck. I know that StewMac sell ebony and rosewood compund radius boards for electric guitar.
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Herman
Re: Compound radius fb
No problem Dan, Take a 12"sanding block and sand towards the nut. Maybe you have to sand the 16"part to keep the board flat. But keep in mind that the fingerboardside will be less high at the nut than it is up the neck.
If it is a pre-made fingerboard, you can't take off too much. If it is a thick board, you can do it any way you want.
Herman
If it is a pre-made fingerboard, you can't take off too much. If it is a thick board, you can do it any way you want.
Herman
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Dan Bejnarowicz
Re: Compound radius fb
Thanks Herman.
That's what I've turned up in research as well. Clearly the important element is to keep the string plane from getting too 'wonky''; nice and straight between the radii
I'm going to try and take a bit off with a 12 in sanding block on a machined 16 in fb up to around the 7th fret. I plan on using the frank ford sanding block (bench plane with paper on it) to make sure the radii matchup. I'll mark the board up with chalk to gauge the progression and check against a radius template & straight edge as I go. Shouldn't be too hard to execute.
Clearly a straight, unmachined board would be the way to go. Thats the plan b.
Finally, I've talked to Dan (Zahn) http://danandkatemusic.net and believe his hand problems could be related to the neck profile. So, I'll measure off a couple of guitars he favours and see what can be done on the overall neck profile as well.
Thanks again.
Dan B
That's what I've turned up in research as well. Clearly the important element is to keep the string plane from getting too 'wonky''; nice and straight between the radii
I'm going to try and take a bit off with a 12 in sanding block on a machined 16 in fb up to around the 7th fret. I plan on using the frank ford sanding block (bench plane with paper on it) to make sure the radii matchup. I'll mark the board up with chalk to gauge the progression and check against a radius template & straight edge as I go. Shouldn't be too hard to execute.
Clearly a straight, unmachined board would be the way to go. Thats the plan b.
Finally, I've talked to Dan (Zahn) http://danandkatemusic.net and believe his hand problems could be related to the neck profile. So, I'll measure off a couple of guitars he favours and see what can be done on the overall neck profile as well.
Thanks again.
Dan B
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Dan Bejnarowicz
Re: Compound radius fb
I finished the compound radius. Went much quicker than I thought, and it is easier to do than one thinks.
A couple of things I learned and to watch out for:
1. I used a sanding blocks (12 in) from 1-8; 16 in from 8 on up.
2. Use chalk to watch progress
3. Careful on the FB edges... don't round these over with a radius block (I did, and have to determine how bad it is... will use string as mock-up. May have kindling now)
4. Dont over sand in the overlap areas. It would be easy to sand a 'divot' around the 7th to 8th fret area.
5. Keep using chalk, especially down the center of the fb. Shows if you take off too much height in the middle
6. DO use a long straight sanding bar (i use a No. 5 plane) to go over the entire fb and check the string paths remain straight and parallel to the fb.
I used a 220 paper, and then worked my way up to 1000. Smooth as glass & sparkly!
A couple of things I learned and to watch out for:
1. I used a sanding blocks (12 in) from 1-8; 16 in from 8 on up.
2. Use chalk to watch progress
3. Careful on the FB edges... don't round these over with a radius block (I did, and have to determine how bad it is... will use string as mock-up. May have kindling now)
4. Dont over sand in the overlap areas. It would be easy to sand a 'divot' around the 7th to 8th fret area.
5. Keep using chalk, especially down the center of the fb. Shows if you take off too much height in the middle
6. DO use a long straight sanding bar (i use a No. 5 plane) to go over the entire fb and check the string paths remain straight and parallel to the fb.
I used a 220 paper, and then worked my way up to 1000. Smooth as glass & sparkly!