Build No. 1 - Getting Closer
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:51 am
Thanks to everyone who has helped me to this point.
My first build is a Martin rosewood dreadnought kit from GMC with mortise & tenon neck.
At this point, I have some questions:
As I understand it, the Martin m/t neck is not a true bolt on & needs to be glued. Is it worth while or a good or bad idea to attach with only the bolt & do an initial string up to see what happens under tension?
How do most of you taper the bridge pin holes - file, reamer? A reamer seems like the best but I'm not excited about buying a fairly expensive & very specialized tool.
I didn't realize that the end peg is also a tapered pin. Is there any reason why they don't use a threaded stud type arrangement, or is this just tradition. Any tips on tapering this hole? The pin that came with my kit is plastic. I'm ok with using plastic (the binding is plastic after all) but do you use regular wood glue or the binding cement to secure it?
Thanks,
Kevin Looker
My first build is a Martin rosewood dreadnought kit from GMC with mortise & tenon neck.
At this point, I have some questions:
As I understand it, the Martin m/t neck is not a true bolt on & needs to be glued. Is it worth while or a good or bad idea to attach with only the bolt & do an initial string up to see what happens under tension?
How do most of you taper the bridge pin holes - file, reamer? A reamer seems like the best but I'm not excited about buying a fairly expensive & very specialized tool.
I didn't realize that the end peg is also a tapered pin. Is there any reason why they don't use a threaded stud type arrangement, or is this just tradition. Any tips on tapering this hole? The pin that came with my kit is plastic. I'm ok with using plastic (the binding is plastic after all) but do you use regular wood glue or the binding cement to secure it?
Thanks,
Kevin Looker