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Any good reason I should not glue the purfling on first, then the binding? The channels are all cut and ready, but it is going to be a real bear to bind and purf at the same time, on this particular project at least.
Thanks

Green poplar.

Hi Dave, the one thing I see is that the seams may not be as tight as they might be if all glued in place at the same time.

Ken

I agree with Ken C -- if the curves, layers etc. are a ploblem gluing the pieces seperately may cause more issues -- including glue drip that fill the channel. What I have done is use very slow setting glue (I can't remember of hand who sells it) and in addtion to tape get yourself a spool of binding cord and wrap the binding/purfling tightly every inch of the perimeter.

I never had success doing purfling then binding. You need to do them together. If you are doing wood you also need to be aware of gaping in the waist area. I use a bar clamp. My methodology is to do a good dry fit. I allow the tail end to be a tad long . I start at the waist when I use wood then set my joint to the tail center on the top , then mate the other side. After about 5 minutes the glue should tack enough that you can start the other side , release the clamp and do the other side. being careful of the joints. Use plenty of tape.
If this is a rosewood you may use CA on the back and wick that around . Use plenty of tape and assure a clean fit. Take your time and don't rush. On wood I use tite bond , white or fish glue. This is where technique is every thing. Also break the inside corner of the wood binding so it won't hold off. Give us some pics as you do this . We are here to help .
Binding cord is not a bad idea , you can use any soft plyable cording. Martin used to use a wide heavy ribbon.

Dave,
I did that on my cocobolo dred with moderate success. I was not totally pleased. It was difficult to tape the purfling into the channel without rolling it forward a bit, if that makes sense, then keeping it clean enough so the binding would fit up tight against it later was a pain too. I agree, I have always had a much better result glueing them in together...not that I have all that much experience, but the 3 others went much better.

Kevin

Hmmm....I appreciate the advice. I am not looking forward to this. The binding is black wood fiber and the purfling is curly maple/black fiber/curly maple/black fiber. The body is a cutaway 000.

I reckon the binding cord and titebond may do the trick. And waist clamps. This is gonna be some dry run..

That will go easier that you think. With the fiber binding , it isn't like wood so you may only need tape. Once you get ready and you get started , you will see it falls into the channel pretty well, In this case you won't have to start at the waist .
Once you do a dry fit you will see that it will work better than you fear .

I would recommend getting geared up for the "worst case scenario" -- life long learning is in play here -- you know "Murphy's law" what can go wrong will!!

The fiber binding from Allied, which is the same as I supply is pretty darn stiff so I can understand your concern.

Slow setting glue is here:

http://www.garrettwade.com/special-slo- ... /62J04.01/

If tape does not work/hold you have a mess then what? Jo Ann Fabrics will have binding cord/ribbon.

$.02

I do like using CA -- however, one can fasten the purfs/bindings "instantly in the wrong place" and that is a whole new problem. I am a progressive but there is an ancient method that works very well to produce error free results.

$.02