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I use the sandpaper-taped-to-the-top method of contouring the bottom of the bridge to the top.
I move the bridge forward and backward, along the long axis of the guitar. So I was surprised to see this guy doing it side to side.
What method do you use?
See attached pic.

I went long ways on convex sanding board, but it would be easier to make a convex sanding board that matched the radius of the guitar if it was made like the one in the picture. I would be careful to flip the bridge every X number of strokes to keep the sanding even.

I have successfully used the guitar as well.

With my vast experience of doing a grand total (let me do the math here) of ONE, I did it like you did Dave, the thought never came to me to do it the other way. I am somehow thinking that the contour wouldn't come out right, can't put my finger on why, maybe it would be OK, what do I know anyway!

David L

Let's put this in perspective ---- are we trying to put "X" radius contour on the bottom of the bridge? Or are we trying to make the bottom of the bridge match the contour of the top to which it will get glued? Now decide which method would be best.

Ken,
Normally I am with you on how you are thinking, but this is one case where you have lost me. If I sand side to side to get my bridge contour close, and then switch directions and sand from neck to tail to get the finished shape, am I OK? I have some 40 and 60 grit strips, not sheets, of sandpaper. My father in law owned an auto body shop and so I have some of his old stuff laying around. The strips are very narrow so if I use them, I can only use them side to side, i.e. upper to lower bout sanding motion. Once I get close to the correct contour, I switch to an 80 grit sheet and go neck to tail. I am pretty sure I just wrote the same thing twice, but I refuse to proof read my own work, so I am going to forge ahead here. Anyway, if my bridge sits perfectly flush on the top after I am done, does it matter how I got there?

How you "rough" sand makes no diff!

To match the sound bourd you have to "use the sound-board" for your template/guide/form -- every single one, every single time will vary.

Ken, I think your logic is unassailable. I do some rough sanding first, then use the top.

If the bridge is going on that particular top, it should match the contours of that particular top... in that particular space. At least that's the way I see it. Perhaps I'm being too particular.

kencierp wrote:How you "rough" sand makes no diff!

To match the sound bourd you have to "use the sound-board" for your template/guide/form -- every single one, every single time will vary.

Got it. I was confused momentarily. The fog has lifted now. Mostly. I dont think it is ever fully gone though.

Then there is this guy (Finger Lakes Guitar Repair) - regluing a Taylor bridge. And I don't follow him at all. Maybe someone can explain it? http://fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/page ... reglue.php
He goes on to say:

"Checking the Bridge Against
a Straightedge. Since the top
of this guitar is somewhat bowed
from 12 years of string tension (as all
used guitar tops become) I want to
make the bottom of the bridge a
touch bowed as well. Rather than
fitting the bridge to match the top
of the guitar, I like to make the
arch of the bridge (from end to end)
meet the arch of the top half way.
This insures both structural stability
and a preservation of the guitar's
tone. Forcing the top of an acoustic
guitar flat at the bridge can have the
opposite effects."
And: "Checking for Straightness
From Front to Back. I only
want the bridge slightly concave from
end to end, not from front to back.
A block plane does a pretty good job
of shaping the bottom of the bridge
but I inevitably have to do a bit of
spot scraping guided by a straightedge
to fine tune the glue joint."