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Ok so I have gotten pretty good about fitting an end wedge so it looks fine.
However, I've always struggled with sanding the body with the wedge already glued in, since the grains run in opposite directions; no matter how carefully I sand, if I'm sanding the body I will scratch up the wedge and vice versa, even with masking and cursing.
So I've been lightly tacking a place holder in the wedge slot until I have the binding channels cut and the body sanded to the point of being able to finish, then I pop off the place holder, carefully measure the length of the wedge slot and trim my actual wedge length to fit right in. Then I sand the wedge to the same point as the body and then glue the wedge in, so I can begin finishing without all the fussing around the wedge-body interface. Works for me, I hope someone has a better idea though.
DaveB

I've sanded with the side grain and then cleaned up the wedge with a razor. I'm able to only hit the wedge and purfs, just enough to remove any crossgrain scratches.

For super detailed sanding I use gadget #2 -- look here:

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/secrets.html

Thanks people!
I'll probably stick with my method for a while because for me, it removes the sanding , scraping, detailing of that wedge area that I am frankly not so good at, and gives me a clean way to do the wedge.

I do like that pen sander - gotta find a used one. Like $40 new.

DaveB

Scraping this area with a razor blade works very well, and gives you a finer finish than any sandpaper does....just scrap the scratches away.

Kevin

I first sand with the grain of the sides but across the grain of the end graft with a semi flexible sanding block. This ensures I get I nice consistent contour around that end graft. Once I'm happy that the end graft is leveled, I just keep sanding across the grain with finer grits. Usually by the time I get to 400G, the visible cross grain scratches are gone. If not, I'll go to 600G, all the time sanding across the grain on the end graft. Once I think I'm done, I'll swab with mineral spirits to double check.

Ken

you must be careful m sanding past 220 grit can give you adhesion problems with the finish.

John, I haven't had any adhesion issues to date. I typically sand the entire body to 320G prior to spraying, with the end graft perhaps getting a bit finer treatment. I guess the best way to know is experiment some, but as I haven't had any issues, I haven't really sprayed any samples.

Ken

You will . 220 is plenty fine . It sux when the finish starts coming off . It usually takes a few years .

John, Target, itself, recommends sanding any pore filled wood to a minimum of 400G prior to spraying EM6000:

"Ensure that grain fillers have been sanded with a minimum of 400-grit sandpaper"

Maybe your concern is more with nitro, though I recall using grits finer that 220 when I worked in a cabinet shop years ago. I have used a number of finishes, the most popular being wipe on General Finishes with furniture for years until I got back into spraying. I have never had an adhesion issue sanding to 320G or 400G as long as the wood is properly cleaned and contaminants are removed prior to spraying. With these water based finishes, I don't use a typical tack cloth, but swab the surface using a cotton towel moistened with diluted DNA.

Ken