www.KitGuitarsForum.com

I have had issues keeping neck and tail blocks centred in the mould when gluing, so have taken to doing them one at a time. Even so, the spreaders sometimes push the joint at the neck block off centre after it has been glued. It took me a while but I realized it would help if I could centre the glued neck block and lock it in position. So I drilled a clean 3/16" hole with a brad point bit through the upper bout end of this tenor ukulele mould. Then I centred the block and clamped it in place, and drilled a hole into the block where the mortise will be cut. I couldn't find a nail that was 3/16" so I used a spare drill bit, and it worked fine to position the neck block so I could put the spreaders in and align and glue the tail block. It's so simple I'm sure someone else has thought of this but it made this build easier. Bruce W.

Yep -- I use long screws going through the mold and into the blocks.

been doing this for years
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcM3GErOI_A

Nice. I use a screw just in one end but both ends might be better. I like the idea of making the hole bigger and using the drill bit or dowel.

I still too struggle keeping the blocks on center in the mold. I have never tried a screw or pin to keep them in place. SO SIMPLE. I've known that John Hall puts a screw through the mold into the neck block just never did it.
I will try this on the next guitar and most likely will adapt it to all builds. Thanks for bringing this up.

Sometimes I find it kind of a scramble to get both blocks, the sides and the mold to all line up perfectly for gluing. Usually, I will set the sides in the mold, clamp them around the edges to hopefully get full contact with mold and then mark the end cuts for the sides. Once the cut line is established and cut, I will set the tail block against a squared block on a granite, flat Surface while applying weight to the sides to keep them all square. Once the tail block is cured, I put it all back in the mold, again with the top side down and anchor the tail and neck block square to the mold with screws for gluing the neck block to the sides. “Generally” I end up with fairly square ends and a rim pretty true to the top, flat sides.

Well it's obvious that great minds think alike- some albeit a little late in their thinking! I do like the flexibility of being able to align the neck block and removing it to trim sides to length etc. But I had not thought of John's brilliant idea of using a screw to draw the top end of the guitar tight in the mould. I will figure out how I can incorporate that in my way of doing things. Thanks for comments - Bruce W.