Glue for binding?

[Bruce Dow]

Hi Phil.

Good luck with the test. If it works, please let us "C'najuns" know the brand of glue you chose.

Thanks.

[bjmsteve]

Hi there,
I had trouble obtaining weld on in Australia and someone ( I think it was a Luthier supplier) suggested using plumbers PVC pipe
cement. After a little research it appeared to have very similar properties to weld on. It melts/softens/disolves the plastic which swells slightly and hardens/gasses out over a day or so. It worked well on my first build which was a Stemac kit with plastic bindings. My subsequent 2 builds have timber bindings so I used tite bond which is available here.
I checked the can today and the glue is still liquid after 2 years on the shelf in the shed .
It comes in different colours depending on its intended use but is available in clear.
My current build form John has iveroid bindings and I intend to test a bit with the glue if I use them although I haven't finally decided on the trim yet.
(Ziricote back and sides with herringbone purflingss)
Brian in Brisbane

[Phil]

Well that plastic model cement didn't work very well! All I had
to do was lift an edge with my fingernail and I could peel the
binding right off. Maybe I'll try finding some of that stuff for
plumbing and try that.

Yesterday I bound the back of my guitar using gap filling CA
glue. I have some tape to clean up that stuck to the glue, but
That turned out great! Would the thicker CA stain the spruce as well?
Maybe I'll have to use the shellac and CA trick on the top.

[bmasten]

Any CA will stain the spruce. Definitely put a wash coat of de-waxed shellac on the top anywhere you might have CA wicking in or running on the top and it will save you a big headache later. DAMHIKT.

[Phil]

I tried picking up some plumbers cement, and tested that. It started melting the binding which I thought would be a good thing, but it didn't even hold to the spruce as well as the model cement! Not to mention the smell of the stuff gave me an instant headache.

I also tried a trial with white glue more out of curiousity then anything, and believe it or not that stuck better then the two cements I tried! Looks like I'll have to pick up some shellac and seal the endgrain and use CA. I found the gap filling CA easy to work with when I did the back. It dries a bit slower then the thin stuff, so I was able to spread some glue about 3 or 4 inches, hold the binding in place (trying not to glue my fingers to the guitar ha ha) and then taped it in place. Off to pick up some shellac tonight!

[naccoachbob]

Phil, you might try taping the binding down every couple of inches, making sure that the binding/purfling is seated correctly, then put down some CA. That way you can see your progress. Once that has cured, you can remove the tape and do another go 'round with the CA on the parts that were previously covered.
Bob