Attaching Bridges

[rienk]

Yeah, I like the idea of pins. These would work pretty good I think:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... t=3&xsr=28

Those are perfect!

[tippie53]

Actually you guys are over thinking this. If I use a vacuum clamp I use a 3/16 set screw. With the top and plate you have about 1/4 inch at the top. The set screw makes for easy removal if the glue works up. The angle on the pins do allow some movement and I don't want any movement here. The set screw is tighter and you can remove it a lot easier.

[rienk]

Actually you guys are over thinking this. If I use a vacuum clamp I use a 3/16 set screw. With the top and plate you have about 1/4 inch at the top. The set screw makes for easy removal if the glue works up. The angle on the pins do allow some movement and I don't want any movement here. The set screw is tighter and you can remove it a lot easier.

Can you give a little more detail?
For a set screw to be any tighter than a pin, doesn't it need to put thread marks inside the bridge and/or top?
If so, is that an issue in removing them without over reaming the holes?

[rienk]

On a little bit different note, does anyone sand countour the bottom of their bridges to match the radius of the top?
I was thinking about CNCing out a small convex sanding block that matched the top, so that the bridge naturally met the contour of the top - thus needing no (or little) pressure to hold the wings down. Any time you laminate two different pieces together with tension built in, you introduce unnecessary stiffness to the system.
I would like my tops to be as free as possible to move.

Comments?

[watergunn]

I follow the method that John Hall uses in his you tube videos. I use my dremel to remove the lacquer in the area I am gluing the bridge. Then I use the same setting on the dremel to route out along the edge of the bridges bottom perimeter.

It then drops into the slot. I have not had to do any sanding on the bottom of any that I have done and the all fit flush.

I have done nine bridges this way so far.

Seems to work for me.

Watergunn

[rienk]

I follow the method that John Hall uses in his you tube videos... I have not had to do any sanding on the bottom of any that I have done and the all fit flush.

I am talking about sanding the convex shape of the top into the bottom of the bridge - the opposite of the radius dish used to sand the bracing underneath. Maybe the slope under the bridge is not very pronounced, and thus not necessary, but removing any flex in the bridge seems like a good idea.

[johnnparchem]

I sand a 25' or 28' radius on the back of my bridge. I made my own convex sanding blocks to get close, I finish with sandpaper on the guitar itself.

[Ben-Had]

I follow the method that John Hall uses in his you tube videos... I have not had to do any sanding on the bottom of any that I have done and the all fit flush.

I am talking about sanding the convex shape of the top into the bottom of the bridge - the opposite of the radius dish used to sand the bracing underneath. Maybe the slope under the bridge is not very pronounced, and thus not necessary, but removing any flex in the bridge seems like a good idea.

I have a bar to sand the radius onto the bottom of the bridge (I use a 25' radius) but I still fine fit it to the top there always seems to be a slight difference. It does however save a lot of time doing first on the bar and saves all pushing and pulling over the top. Obviously, you can make one in your radius dish.

Edit: OK John, so I was still typing while you posted:)

[rienk]

I follow the method that John Hall uses in his you tube videos... I have not had to do any sanding on the bottom of any that I have done and the all fit flush.

I am talking about sanding the convex shape of the top into the bottom of the bridge - the opposite of the radius dish used to sand the bracing underneath. Maybe the slope under the bridge is not very pronounced, and thus not necessary, but removing any flex in the bridge seems like a good idea.

I have a bar to sand the radius onto the bottom of the bridge (I use a 25' radius) but I still fine fit it to the top there always seems to be a slight difference. It does however save a lot of time doing first on the bar and saves all pushing and pulling over the top. Obviously, you can make one in your radius dish.

Edit: OK John, so I was still typing while you posted:)

Is there such a thing as flexible sandpaper?
Putting a piece over the spot on the top where the bridge is going to go, and then using that to fine tune the bridge bottom would be a slick way to go - just like when touching up a neck heel.

[Ben-Had]

That's just what I do. I take a piece of 150 and tape it to the top and sand over the bridge location top to bottom not side to side.