solid mahogany linings over kerfed

[Bark_Man]

Im doing solid Mahogany linings for the cedar top of my first Gibson L-00.
Is there a rule of thumb for the width of the linings (Kerfed or solid) + the thickness of the sides?
The dimension of the purfling and binding are 3.5mm+\-
How much lining should be left after routing for the binding\purfling?
Guessing 2x 3.5mm+\-?
Mike

[Diane Kauffmds]

Kerfing, solid or otherwise, is usually around 1/4" wide by itself. Unless you're going to use extra wide perfling as well as bindings, this is more than enough. 1/4" kerfing, plus a side width of ~ 0.090 = a little more than 8.5mm, so you're just fine with the standard 1/4" width.

[carld05]

I use 3 layers of mahogany from some sides I got with blems. They get thinned to about .06" or .07" and ripped to three different widths 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4". The 3/4" layer is glued in first between side supports of 1/2".

IMG_20240327_153902495_HDR.jpg

Then the 5/8" and 1/2" strips layered on top.

IMG_20240327_160725480.jpg

IMG_20240328_160402442.jpg

.
If you're using wide purfling like herringbone or abalone with other purfling outlines then you can add more layers as needed, DAMHIKT!

[Bark_Man]

Kerfing, solid or otherwise, is usually around 1/4" wide by itself. Unless you're going to use extra wide perfling as well as bindings, this is more than enough. 1/4" kerfing, plus a side width of ~ 0.090 = a little more than 8.5mm, so you're just fine with the standard 1/4" width.

Thankyou Diane .....for that info. the solid lining is measuring right at 1/4 +\-
Im about .085 for the sides as I could not tell the Mahogany species.
All I knew was it was old growth and it bent very easily with just minimal buckling (not sure what else to call it.)

[Bark_Man]

I use 3 layers of mahogany from some sides I got with blems. They get thinned to about .06" or .07" and ripped to three different widths 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4". The 3/4" layer is glued in first between side supports of 1/2". IMG_20240327_153902495_HDR.jpg
Then the 5/8" and 1/2" strips layered on top.
IMG_20240327_160725480.jpgIMG_20240328_160402442.jpg.
If you're using wide purfling like herringbone or abalone with other purfling outlines then you can add more layers as needed, DAMHIKT!

Hey Carld...I also used the Mahoany from my test bends which went easily\well. for me...much cleaner over kerfed lining as well. my purfling-binding winds up being about 1/2 of what gets routed and the other 1/2 left for the top and or back..
A bit of research also stated additional tonal qualities coming thru because of the solid lining for which I was hoping in this parlor guitar. Thanks for the pics...looks good.
Whats the magic to embed pics. I would like to be able to do that as well?
Barkman-Mike

[carld05]

Down at the bottom of the "Post a reply" screen, click on "Attachments". The instructions are there with an "Add files" button. When you get one loaded in that box, get the cursor blinking where you want the attachment in your text and click the "Place inline" button and Bob's your Uncle!

[Bob Gleason]

I don't think here is any research that definitively shows that solid linings are better, or worse than, kerfed linings. If there was, there would be a rush to change over to them. I think it is mostly personal preference.Kerfed lining is very easy to make, and if you make it in batches of what you will need for a year or so, making them does not take much time. I like the look of kerfed lining and to me they help make the guitar look finished. Kerfed lining is also much easier to install than solid lining. I buy into the concept of light weight instruments, so kerfed lining is also lighter, although by a very small amount. In general, kerfed lining, unless you are a slovenly builder of which I'm usure there are none of here, looks cleaner to me that either solid lining or laminated lining. Just my point of view.-Bob