End Wedge ?

[David L]

I'm ready to radius the rim prior to installing the kerfing. I'm wondereing when I should install the end wedge. It seems like I should do it prior to radiusing. I have to second guess myself because a lot of other things that I "think" or it "seems" have not turned out to be correct or at the very least, not the "best" way.

Thanks,
David L

[kencierp]

I've always install the the end graft "after" the body is assembled -- However I have seen it done on just the rim as well. Why would it matter if the kerfing is not installed before hand? I would recommend having the kerfing installed before doing much rim handling out side the mold -- the linings tend to make the rim much more stable. Sanding the wedge to match the top and back edge of the rim is no big deal -- plus its completely trimmed during the binding channeling process. $.02

[David L]

That makes sense (of course), handling the rim as little as possible outside of the mold and besides I'm going to radius the rim again after the lining is installed, I could install the end wedge (graft, mine will be wedge shaped) prior to final radiusing, that way when I radius the rim with the lining installed the end wedge will be brought down even with the rim along with everything else. Thanks Ken! I'm editing this because I just re-read your reply and you stated that you don't install the end graft until the body is assembled (paraphrasing), I'm taking that to mean that the box is closed when you install the graft. I know that I'm probably over-thinking the crap out of this as it all gets whacked off when the binding/purfling channel is routed, I just want to be sure as this is my first time around at this.

Thanks,
David L

[darren]

I just installed mine last night, here's how I like to do it.-

1. close the box, true up sides
2. route for binding
3. install end wedge - must be 'overlength' into the binding channel the height of the side purfs if you have them
4. miter purfs and install binding

[tippie53]

I install the end wedge before I route the binding channel. That way I get a perfect fit.

[Darryl Young]

If you have a purfling on bottom of the binding and want to miter it with purfling either side of the tail wedge, do as Darren suggests. If no purfling on the bottome of the binding, do as John suggests. I used John's suggested method and it worked great (I had no purfling line on this one).

A little tip: after routing the binding/purfling channels, use mineral spirits (or something) to clean the dust out of the binding channel before glueing the binding in place. I didn't do that and got a tiny bit of rosewood dust in the glue line between my ivaroid tail wedge and the ivaroid binding.......just enough it shows a dark line on glue line between the two.

[David L]

Thanks guys, I think that for this one (my first) I'm not going to try to get fancy pants on it, no purfling on the side of the guitar, just plain old binding that came in the box. I'm really resisting my urges to stray from the box on this first one. I can remember, in December, when I was waiting for my kit to arrive, I was talking about changing some things, adding some things, and the such and I can remember John (politely) discouraging me from getting too crazy (basically he said I should stick to the box on the first one) and I'm glad that I have listened (so far). As I'm getting into the actual procedures now, I can really appreciate how important it is (for me) to keep it simple and increase my chances at being "successful" at my first one so that I won't be discouraged from building another, also as a confidence builder so that I may increase the technical challenges on future projects.

Thanks,
David L

[Tony_in_NYC]

For what its worth, I made the same decision on my first kit. I built what was in the box except for the head plate veneer and heel cap, for which I used some sweet spalted maple. However, after the great success I had on my first guitar, I wished I had made a few changes like adding purfling lines under the binding and such. On #2, I did the mitered purfling on the end wedge and I have done it on #3 and #4 as well. Its such a nice custom touch that you only see on guitars costing a few thousand dollars. For the extra $8.00 in purfling, its totally worth the time for me now. I should be finishing up installing the binding tonight on the koa OM and I will post pics as soon as I can.
Good luck David. You will do fine.

[David L]

I hear what you're saying Tony, I just think that I would much rather look back and say "I sure wish I would have..." instead of saying "I sure do regret..." or "I sure do wish I wouldn't have..." You know what I'm saying the eight dollars isn't the issue. And yes, I do agree with you, it's in the details that makes a guitar (or anything else) stand out. There's lots of stuff that I want to do to make an exceptional guitar, however I'm resisting and saving for project #2,#3, etc... Heck I just want to be able to "build" a guitar, if I'm "successful" then I'll work on the exceptional part. Thanks for the encouragement Tony, it does help!

David L