restoration of a Martin D28

[tippie53]

I started another restoration this is a 66 Martin D28 with some issues. The tail block was split as were the sides . The top was covered in a finish called Environtex. This is an epoxy and well the top was going to have to come off. I will keep this posting up for you guys to see an entire restoration.
First I loosened the finish off the extension and then loosened that . Once that was fee of the top I could pull the neck.

[tippie53]

with the neck off I can take off the top. First I score the binding and remove them. Sometimes I need to apply a little heat to loosen the binding. Then I use heat to loosen the glue and pop off the top

[glenklein]

Looks like they just poured that epoxy on... like a self leveling, or something. Over the pickguard, bridge and everything. Good grief... who does that to a guitar like that?! Might've actually helped preserve the top though... dunno.

How did it sound before you started?

Looking forward to more posts on this.

[tippie53]

this was as dead as could be. no volume. The finish was about .030 thick

[Ben-Had]

John, whenever I've removed a top or back I've struggled a little with the brace ends that are tucked and glued into the lining. Any removal tips you can share along those lines as far as helping get them separated without damage?

[tippie53]

I use heat then use a little friendly force to pop then end out of the kerfing

[pete nardo]

John, would u elaborate on how u use "heat" to loosen the top? Do u heat the knives or apply heat directly to the joint somehow?
I'm trying to remove the top of an old uke and am struggling w/it.
Thanks.

[tippie53]

I use both methods. On a uke you have a thin area of the top that is rather delicate so work more heat on the knife. Let the heat to its job and take your time