Bridge size and placement.

[SanAngeloBill]

I just spent several weeks in the hospital and got the idea to build 4 kits, 2 son's, 2 son-in-law. I ordered Leo Jaymx Telecaster styles. Upon receipt I noticed the bridges are not drilled for through body string install so I ordered new bridges, only to discover they come in different sizes. The bridges supplied in the kit measure 95 X 80 mm, the replacements were 86 X 80 mm which created a large gap between fhe Bridge and pick guard.

So, I'm left with either drilling the supplied bridges or replacing the bridges.

Open to the next best step.

Thanks, Bill

[Skarsaune]

Telecaster bridges definitely come in a variety of styles & sizes.

the biggest differences seem to be
- toploader (not drilled) vs thru body (drilled)
- string spacing - seems to be two standards; probably the made in usa vs the offshore

and then there are "short" bridges and "full length" bridges, which is what you've come up on.
They also vary in the lips on them, sheet metal vs machined, etc etc etc.

Easiest fix is get different bridges that are the length you want AND drilled through.
Check the specs over carefully, of course.

Sources - StewMac, AllParts, there are certainly more.
-

[TEETERFAN]

I run into this building my relic guitars. Scarsaune is right, top loaders and thru-body effect lots of things. Got to watch what you swap. Some Squier “thu-body holes are different than Fender. Are the kit bodies drilled for thru-body? I think it would be best to check standard Telecaster blueprints and compare to your kits. The location of the bridge saddles should be estimated and compared to any new bridge’s location.