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Excellent purfling inlay around the sound hole. I can't see the joints at all. Did you scarf those ends?

No the fit was snug without doing that.
.055" cutter for .060" purfling.
Should have been VERY tight but I suppose using a Dremel that probably has a bit of run out accounts for that. Using titebond is a better way to glue these in for an even more seamless fit, but for the application that wouldn't work too well.

The abalone is in, flooded with CA. Waiting for drying then I'll level it.

Rosette is done sanded flush.
It turned out good. I wonder if gaps will show up when applying the finish????? They always do.

The top is at .110" now. I think it's just right. Will end up about .100" after all the final sanding before the finish.

Ya goot!

Very nice, like all your work!

I don't see any gaps. You've done a superb job.

Thanks. My last one I made like this did not turn out as nice. I routed the whole deal and glued in both purflings with Teflon strips filling the void. Messing with titebond
and not achieving a tight fit all the way around.
I have switched to this process and I like it.
I switched 3 guitars ago to using CA on my bindings too.
Fitting them well then tacking them in with CA really reduces the pucker factor that you get trying to work with titebond setting up before you can get things taped up, especially troubling when I'm doing this in my hot summer shop.

I seal the cut channels with shellac, inlay the pearl, then wick ca glue into shell rosettes and purflings. For pvc purflings, I use duco Cement. I've pretty much gone to Duco for all of my bindings.

Diane do you use Duco for wood bindings also?

I prefer titebond for wood, only because it cleans up easier than Duco. Duco does work though.

Cold hide glue does a nice job on wood bindings.