www.KitGuitarsForum.com

martin d41 kit. rosewood. can't I just spray it with a satin or semigloss lacquer in a can?
or use a rubbing polyurathane?

I dont really need to fill the pores do I?

Its not that I am running out of patient with this project. I have not even put the neck on yet. its just that I would like to finish this off the failsafe method.

Filling pores is optional, and rattle cans of varnish. lacquer and shellac are available at the guitar supply houses and your local hardware store.

Ed

A frequently asked question.

search.php?keywords=guitar+finish+spray ... mit=Search
https://www.google.com/search?q=spray+c ... 2&ie=UTF-8

I knew it would be a popular topic.
I guess my question is can I sand it down well with 220. and then spray a shake can deft lacquer on it?

if then will it be ok on the bindings, neck, fretboard, head,...?
I mean do I just spray it all?
How many coats?

I recommend sanding open pore woods at 180 and closed pore woods at 220. Yes you will spray over bindings and all. The bindings should be scraped after sanding but prior to spraying. Fretboards are typically not finished. I recommend against Deft brand lacquer as it stays far too soft for far too long to be used on a guitar. A wipe on poly is also fine for a finish without a pore fill. Number of coats will depend on how thick the individual coats are and if the finish will get buffed in the end. Somewhere between 6-12 coats depending. If you intend to buff out to a high gloss I recommend you fill the pores, most unfilled finishes are of a satin type.

If you want a smooth finish you have to fill. If you are looking for a simple finish tru oil may be your option.
I agree with Brian that Deft is not what you want to use. Many of us finish the guitar and neck apart then put them together after finish. Also don't over sand , as Brian points out. If you sand too smooth your finish won't have something to grab on to.
Tru oil is a rubbed on finish and you can lay out a few coats . If you choose rattle cans and you choose not to fill use a satin or matte. Filling is not the difficult but on a gloss finish it is the final level sanding and buffing that takes a lot of work.
Take your time .
If you want to use rattle cans you can expect about 4 cans .
Here is what I used. I use spray guns but Behlen also makes a string instrument lacquer

http://www.grizzly.com/search/?q=lacquer

Thanks John,
I am thinking the Behlen sealer and then their top coat is almost foolproof. I guess I should have named this topic "Fool Proof Finish".

I am thinking 3 coats of sealer and then 3 coats of top coat would do it.


Then the guy at woodcraft said "Tung oil" is the most foolproof finish we have. I could not argue, just never considered Tung oil for guitars.

Right when I had a direction planned, I get a new option!

jartzh wrote:
Then the guy at woodcraft said "Tung oil" is the most foolproof finish we have. I could not argue, just never considered Tung oil for guitars.

That may be true from a practical standpoint, but I'd wonder if using tung oil would compromise the acoustic properties of musical instruments ... something you wouldn't have to worry about with chairs and bookcases.

Woodcraft also sells the Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer and the sealer for it. That's where I get mine.

When it gets cold, I sometimes switch to Tru-Oil (which I use for all my necks anyway), because I can bring it into the house to dry without my work stinking up the place. Either finish works well when properly applied, in my experience.

I didn't fill the pores when I finished my dulcimer. I did a "learning experience" French polish, and it came out sort of semi-gloss in appearance with the texture of the wood showing. Reasonably attractive, I think. If you don't insist on a high-gloss perfect surface, you have quite a few options.