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I tried it and it’s hard to tell. I feel like it may be an illusion from the headplate and a bad job shaping the headstock. The laminations seem straight. I’m going to put the positioning pins in place for the fretboard, cut the groove for the nut and check it again.

Does the fretboard sit flat on the top at the body join? If not, I would trim the tenon to get it to sit flat, then accept a slightly out of what neck heel. If the fretboard sits flat, then your neck is twisted, so you might re-work the flat top of the neck to take the twist out.

Good luck

Ed

It's kind of hard to tell. My eyes aren't what they used to be and if I try to focus they go cross. Thank God for the iPhone:



As for the fretboard, there's a bit of a gap over the upper bout on the bass side than the treble so there could be some play with the tenon.

Looks like the nut slot is uneven, deeper on the left when looking at the grads on the rule

Ed

I didn't slot for the nut yet.

I have another neck blank made that I am tempted to use. Things went a little sideways with this one. In hindsight there are things I would have liked to have done differently. I won’t get into the issues but this is another laminated neck blank that I made several years ago and it’s nearly identical in construction and has been sitting and acclimating for some time now.

A thought...has the neck been laid on a flat surface, fingerboard side down, and inspected for 'rocking', which I think might identify warpage? If it was my project, I'd like to be certain of the illness before offering a cure.

I think it's worth checking into Ed's comment about the nutslot being uneven. I see your response about not having cut the slot yet but if you look at the picture the ruler graduations are indeed covered more on one side than the other. I can't think of why this would be except for a peghead veneer that is uneven in thickness?

It looks like you used a ruler and a card scraper as 'winding sticks' to check for twist. I think you need two long items (12 to18" maybe) to do this because the length will exaggerate any twist so you can see it. It really works, I made a wooden pair based on a Paul sellers video. Only problem is making sure that are nice and straight.

phavriluk wrote:A thought...has the neck been laid on a flat surface, fingerboard side down, and inspected for 'rocking', which I think might identify warpage? If it was my project, I'd like to be certain of the illness before offering a cure.

I did just that using my router table as a reference. Both the carved neck and the unworked blank are slightly warped. There's probably a 1/64" variance somewhere. I'm still inclined to start over with the unworked blank because the carved neck actually has a little more "flex."

A shaped neck will always be 'looser' than an uncarved blank. Lots less wood to resist bending forces.