1st scratch build (Walnut OM)

[Darryl Young]

Yeah, what John said. In a sphere, the radius is the same no matter the angle.

[Coach]

Thanks guys.
A question on the width of the braces. The 2 lower back braces, I made those 5/16 wide x 5/8. The 2 upper braces are .235 (6mm) wide by 5/8.

Am wondering if I should thin those 5/16 braces a bit more (the plans specify 3/4 wide x 3/8).

I presume 5/16 for the X brace is fine.


Edit: sorry, correction. Should have read: plans specify 3/4 wide lower back braces.

[johnnparchem]

Thanks guys.
A question on the width of the braces. The 2 lower back braces, I made those 5/16 wide x 5/8. The 2 upper braces are .235 (6mm) wide by 5/8.

Am wondering if I should thin those 5/16 braces a bit more (the plans specified 3/4 wide x 3/8).

I presume 5/16 for the X brace is fine.

I often thin the lower two braces, I make them the same size as the upper two braces. I make mine 1/4" wide.

5/16th is good for the X braces.

[Coach]

More advice needed from the pros here. I'll attach pics of the top, back, and side thickness. What I need to know is this: considering the thickness of the front, should I or shouldn't I scallop the X braces? Also, would it be advisable to thin down the sides?

Back


Front


Scalloping pattern


Sides

[darren]

thicknessing/'how much to scallop' is more about the stiffness of the specific top than about numbers. Others with more experience could be more specific than I... but I think early in the game the goal is to copy a brace scallop/shape of a guitar you like, listen and take notes, make small changes at a time as you build more.

the back is a little thinner than I go with my backs, but there you are and you will be fine. (my guess anyway, conversations about reflective back or responsive back can be left for another day)

Sides I'd leave as they will get thinned down during the truing up stage after closing the box, little more after binding, and again during finishing. biggest concern about side thickness is 'is this going to bend at this thickness', and you are past that challenge. Sanding to a consistent dimension would be a challenge at this point anyway. :)

[tippie53]

The sides are a tad heavy but you can thin the side more during sanding . When you get into bracing of the top , it can get very deep in theory and design . I find that after 13 years of building I have dialed in what I like .
I am very traditional and like the martin tone so I do base my bracing matching much of Martin design with some alteration. Keep a building log and you will soon find the cause effect relationships of the braces and how they work ,

[Coach]

What about back joint reinforcement, is it highly recommended to glue one on?

[tippie53]

tradition will put the cross grain support on a back that has a back strip . Wood butted are often without. I like to use them myself on all my backs.

[Coach]

Am making some progress. Attached back to sides, and braced top. So, the bracing look okay to you guys? Any suggestions?

The plans have the X braces scalloped somewhat more, however I'm thinking my top may be on the thin side, so I held back a bit.

One issue that came up. The guy I got the neck from told me it's a Mahogany neck (off a ruined Jr Jay). I removed the fingerboard and noticed it doesn't look like mahogany at all. It's very light weight too. Looks kind of yellowish, soft like cedar. Am wondering if that's what it could be and if it's worthwhile using.

[Jim_H]

Your pics aren't working?