First Build - 12 Fret

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I greatfully accept the nomination Jim.. :>)

Kevin

[turnertj]

I finished up on the soundboard tonight. My son made me list all the "bones" and show him how they went on. Pretty funny actually.

So with it all done I tried the tap test on it. Shouldn't it sound good by now? Sounds like I'm knocking on a barn door! That's probably a bad sign, huh?

[turnertj]

Here are a few more of the bracing close-up. I tapered the lower X-brace and tonebars so they blend in to the soundboard before the kerfing. So I just have to cut slots in the rim for the x-brace in the upper bout and the top brace in order to get the top mounted up.

How much overhang do you guys allow before you close up the box? I don't want too much and then to have a bunch of tearout...

[johnnparchem]

Your bones look good!

I do wonder about the transverse brace; It looks like you notched it out in the top instead of drilling a hole near the bottom of the brace. I believe that brace supports a lot of the tension of the neck wanting to rotate. I not really an expert so it would be good to get John's input.

[turnertj]

Yeah, I debated about that. But when I examined where the truss rod comes in with my neck, there was no way to reach it if I drilled in from the bottom. Maybe I need to remove it and make one that is much taller so I can just drill a hole?

[tippie53]

yes , redrill the notch removes the stiffness and you can lighten the braces a bit. It looks a little heavy. Here is a good visual reference for you .

http://theunofficialmartinguitarforum.y ... x6YFYF2G9s

I think you may find this pretty handy

[turnertj]

John,

So you think it would be best to remove the transverse brace? If so, what's the best way? I suppose I could just carefully carve it down to the soundboard, hone my chisel technique some!

I like that link John, I think you sent it before. Some of those guitars look like they have really thin x-braces even. Mine look hugely chunky, but they are 5/16". That's right, isn't it?

Tj

[johnnparchem]

Yeah, I debated about that. But when I examined where the truss rod comes in with my neck, there was no way to reach it if I drilled in from the bottom. Maybe I need to remove it and make one that is much taller so I can just drill a hole?

If the thin brace above is in the way that one can be notched. I drill the hole a bit off the bottom of the transverse brace. After I drill the hole through the heal block, I use a thin rat tail file to clear a path through the popcycle brace if nessesary.

[turnertj]

The popsicle brace is fine actually. I can try to take some pictures when I get home tonight, but the trouble is actually the geometry in the neck block. I have a stewmac neck and neck block, which I am fairly underwhelmed with. If I had known better I would have gotten one from John. But I'm a bit stuck with it now. The hole for the truss rod is actually low enough off the soundboard that the notch in the transverse brace was the only way I was going to be able to reach it. I couldn't drill a hole in the bottom of the transverse brace and hope to get an allen key into the hole and to the truss rod. So it looks like I need to remove that transverse brace--not sure how--and then build a new taller one (maybe lighter too by John's comments earlier), and then have plenty of room to drill a hole through that one.

Any ideas on a good way to remove it? I've been thinking about building a little rail system to let my dremel router plate ride on, that way I make sure I remove it square. I may be able to rout it down to the bottom of the nothc, and then put the new transverse brace on top of that strip that remains so I never have to touch the soundboard.

[johnnparchem]

If you have a block plane you can take the brace down really quickly to the point you are talking about. I still do not understand the neck and block issue, do you have a picture. The truss rod should end up close to the fretboard which should allow a lower hole to give access to an allen wrench.