MS D-18

Take us through building your guitar step by step. Post pictures and tell us what you're doing.
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Ben-Had
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Location: Creedmoor, NC

Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

Cutting the DT opening before installing binding.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

I use duco cement and brown binding tape. Let it sit overnight before removing the tape.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

Time to inlay the side position markers on the FB. These are the supplies and tools I'll be using:

1. Razor blade for trimming and beveling the side dot material
2. .3mm pencil for location marking
3. White side dot material
4. Pin vise and #54 (.146") drill bit
5. Fretting hammer for seating the side dot material
6. Digital calipers for measuring locations

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First I measure the FB thickness.

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Half of that gives me my center location and I mark 2 spots of either end of the FB and draw a center line.

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Measure the distance between frets and take half of that for the center point.

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I use the point of my calipers to punch a center hole and mark it with the pencil to be sure I'm on spot.

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Drill the hole.

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Bevel the end of the side dot material and cut off a small piece.

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Tap the side dot material into place and then trim it off.

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Here it is in position and then I do the same for the rests of the positions, all done.

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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

Couple pics I left out on binding.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

Time to get the scraper sharpened.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

Finishing up and testing the edge.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

I pore fill and finish my necks with Tru-Oil using a process I first learned from Dave Bagwill. I sand with a 50/50 mixture of tru-oil and mineral spirits first with 150 and then 220. This creates a slurry of sanding dust and tru-oil to fill the pores nicely, wipe it down, then I let it dry.
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Tim Benware
Ben-Had
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Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

After the neck dries I sand from 320 to 1200 for a nice smooth surface. Unlike the lacquer where I only sand to 220 or 320, tru-oil likes a smoother surface to adhere to. I use coffee filters for applying the coats, they are basically lint free. I crumble one up inside another an put it on. This is what it looks like after 3 coats. I go anywhere from 12-20 depending on how I think it looks and feels. I wait about 2 hours between coats and then I buff it with 0000 steel wool about every 3-4 coats. Depending on the type of surface wanted I either leave it glossy after the last coat or do one final buff with the 0000 for a satin like finish (my preference).
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Tim Benware
johnnparchem
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Re: MS D-18

Post by johnnparchem »

Thanks for the post. I will try a true oil neck on the 00 I am working on.
Ben-Had
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
Location: Creedmoor, NC

Re: MS D-18

Post by Ben-Had »

johnnparchem wrote:Thanks for the post. I will try a true oil neck on the 00 I am working on.
YW!
Tim Benware
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