MS D-18
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Ben-Had
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- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
Cutting the DT opening before installing binding.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
I use duco cement and brown binding tape. Let it sit overnight before removing the tape.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
Time to inlay the side position markers on the FB. These are the supplies and tools I'll be using:
1. Razor blade for trimming and beveling the side dot material
2. .3mm pencil for location marking
3. White side dot material
4. Pin vise and #54 (.146") drill bit
5. Fretting hammer for seating the side dot material
6. Digital calipers for measuring locations

First I measure the FB thickness.

Half of that gives me my center location and I mark 2 spots of either end of the FB and draw a center line.


Measure the distance between frets and take half of that for the center point.


I use the point of my calipers to punch a center hole and mark it with the pencil to be sure I'm on spot.

Drill the hole.

Bevel the end of the side dot material and cut off a small piece.


Tap the side dot material into place and then trim it off.


Here it is in position and then I do the same for the rests of the positions, all done.


1. Razor blade for trimming and beveling the side dot material
2. .3mm pencil for location marking
3. White side dot material
4. Pin vise and #54 (.146") drill bit
5. Fretting hammer for seating the side dot material
6. Digital calipers for measuring locations

First I measure the FB thickness.

Half of that gives me my center location and I mark 2 spots of either end of the FB and draw a center line.


Measure the distance between frets and take half of that for the center point.


I use the point of my calipers to punch a center hole and mark it with the pencil to be sure I'm on spot.

Drill the hole.

Bevel the end of the side dot material and cut off a small piece.


Tap the side dot material into place and then trim it off.


Here it is in position and then I do the same for the rests of the positions, all done.


Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
Couple pics I left out on binding.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
Time to get the scraper sharpened.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
Finishing up and testing the edge.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
I pore fill and finish my necks with Tru-Oil using a process I first learned from Dave Bagwill. I sand with a 50/50 mixture of tru-oil and mineral spirits first with 150 and then 220. This creates a slurry of sanding dust and tru-oil to fill the pores nicely, wipe it down, then I let it dry.
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Tim Benware
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Ben-Had
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
After the neck dries I sand from 320 to 1200 for a nice smooth surface. Unlike the lacquer where I only sand to 220 or 320, tru-oil likes a smoother surface to adhere to. I use coffee filters for applying the coats, they are basically lint free. I crumble one up inside another an put it on. This is what it looks like after 3 coats. I go anywhere from 12-20 depending on how I think it looks and feels. I wait about 2 hours between coats and then I buff it with 0000 steel wool about every 3-4 coats. Depending on the type of surface wanted I either leave it glossy after the last coat or do one final buff with the 0000 for a satin like finish (my preference).
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Tim Benware
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johnnparchem
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- Location: Seattle
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Re: MS D-18
Thanks for the post. I will try a true oil neck on the 00 I am working on.
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Ben-Had
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 pm
- Location: Creedmoor, NC
Re: MS D-18
YW!johnnparchem wrote:Thanks for the post. I will try a true oil neck on the 00 I am working on.
Tim Benware
