First kit build - Martin dred

[BlindBo]

That’s interesting, Kevin. I’m going to give it a try. Do you try to get the joints to fall under a brace or not worry about it?

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I have a dozen or so made up ahead of time, from spruce and redwood tops.

I just glue one onto the back, lay out and fit the braces and glue them in place.

I think one time I glue down the braces and then came back a glued in sections of the strip between the braces. It can be done this way but for esthetics it's difficult to make the sections appear to be in a straight line. Also cutting out pockets for the braces actually helps keep the braces in place when gluing them in. Use a square against the strip on each braces when gluing to make sure they're square to the strip and it can look great.

[BlindBo]

That’s a great tip for using leftover top pieces. In my first couple of StewMac kits, the instructions said to do the cross braces first and then drop in the back strip pieces. With my limited vision, they came out looking like a mountain road. When my friend taught me your method, my back bracing really improved. Thanks for the tip.on the top scraps. 👍

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Just make sure you're cutting strips across the grain.
I usually get one or two complete strips from each top I make, which leaves me with more than I'll probably ever use up. 😀

[Stray Feathers]

I will add one thing to Kevin's words: I ordered a branding iron with my name on it and use it on the back graft in my instruments.

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But I have a problem getting the brand straight on the wood sometimes, and it's a hassle to remove a badly branded glued-in back graft and redo it. So I now brand the strip first to get it right (or one end or one section of the strip), and then glue it all down. I align whatever pieces I'm using, with the splices under braces, glue them, and lay a strip of waxed paper along the length of it. (Sometimes I use a little tape to hold the waxed paper in position). Then I confirm the alignment using a metal rule; the waxed paper acts as a dam from the glue squeezeout. I put a caul on top, narrower than the back graft so I can monitor the alignment, and put it in the gobar deck. I have to watch that things stay aligned as the glue slips around a bit. Then, as usual, I notch the graft for the braces. Bruce W.[attachment=1]_DSC9120A crop 2.jpg[/attachment

[rcplanefan]

Back at it this weekend, and I've got the braces now attached to both the top and back of the guitar.





Before I attach the back and top to the sides I do have a question - how important is it to shape the tone bars? I know that John has a video that shows how to achieve the correct tone, and it looks like some fairly extreme changes in the braces. If it is necessary, I want to make sure I do it soon.

Thanks!

[BlindBo]

Hey RC I strongly recommend you try to get the best top response you can. There are a number of YouTube videos on this subject. It’s more complicated than just adjusting the tone bars. John’s video is really good. If I remember correctly, he shoots for a “C” note on a Snark tuner connected to the top.
O’Brien Guitars has a good one too. Watch as many as you can stand to and see what makes most sense to you.

I was not aware of this technique for my first few guitars. I honestly believe my current guitars have much more voice, sustain, and cleaner harmonics. BTW, my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it!😎

[phavriluk]

Hoo boy! Tuning a braced top is an art form. If OP can get to a luthier who will do this and demo the workflow for him. it would be a true gift. There ain't no cookbook. Each soundboard is unique and different adjustments are done accordingly. And getting this process achieved, most of us will never get it, we don't have the experience and aren't about to get as much as is needed to do this.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I suggest you look up a pic of a Martin Dreadnaught braced top and mimic the carving on the braces. You can probably also find some dimensions such as how tall are the braces, including scalloped areas.
If you copy a known top such as this I don't think you'll be dissatisfied with the result. If in doubt, leave a little more wood than taking away too much.
Most plans you can purchase will show someone's idea on where to scallop, etc.

For a first guitar I'd highly recommend this approach.

By the way, your bracing so far looks really good.

Kevin

[rcplanefan]

I may add the scallops, but interestingly enough when I put a tuner in the sound hole and tap the top, it resonates with a "D" which is where John says it should be. I have time to figure this out (Jury Duty starts again on Tuesday), but I'm not sure I need to do much.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. This has been a blast so far.

Ken