First kit build - Martin dred

[rcplanefan]

Yes, 3+3 tuners are side specific, but, all 3 are the same per side. There are lots of tuner styles. Post a picture of your tuners if you’re unsure which side is which.
I’m surprised your headstock doesn’t have a veneer. It is obviously not installed in the picture you posted.
One other question, why does your back center brace stop above the second back brace instead of going to the neck block? I have never built a Martin kit so these may be just ignorant questions.

Well I discovered that my go-bars are way too stiff, so once I get the correct set, the back brace will extend all the way to the neck block. Good question - it’s half done.

[BlindBo]

I have no idea of this is correct, but, when I built my deck, I copied the dimensions from a luthier friend’s deck and he sold me the bars. Without any extra shims, I put my wife’s kitchen scale under a single bar and got about 12-13 lbs. Again, I have no idea if this is a good range, but, it is easy to work with, no indentions in the wood, and not a lot of flying go-bars around the shop.
On the back brace, the same friend (RIP Jimmie Hall) taught me to install a single piece longitudinal back brace and then cut the cross brace slots so that your longitudinal back brace is perfectly aligned. Once the longitudinal brace was glued in and the cross braces were laid out, he used a single edge razor blade with a small hammer to score the longitudinal back brace ALMOST all the way down to the back. The rest was cleaned up with a SHARP chisel and light sandpaper.
His back braces were perfect. A perfectly linear longitudinal center brace and cross braces with no gaps. I was blown away after using the StewMac method until he showed me this method and this is my standard now. If I was only as skilled as Jimmie!🥰

[BlindBo]

This visual may help:

IMG_0914.jpeg

[rcplanefan]

If my go-bars were bent that much, they would absolutely CRUSH the braces. Lol.

The Martin kit came with 2 pieces for the back brace. I love your idea of the razor blade and chisel and I’ll try that down the 2 remaining braces. Learning a lot here - thank you very much for taking the time to help. Much appreciated!

[Diane Kauffmds]

Blindbo is correct. The center back reinforcement bracing strip is best laid out and glued dead center along the entire back, before cutting places for the blocks and braces. That way, it's straight and continuous stem to stern. I use a .5mm mechanical pencil to mark everything. First, I mark where the neck and tail blocks hit. I score the brace with an xacto knife, use a small saw to cut through the brace, then a chisel to pop it out. I double check the Fit.

Then I lay out each back brace, marking front and back, and do the same thing as above. The back brace pops into the cut space.

When gluing, I use a small square to make absolutely sure that each back brace sits 90° perpendicular to the center back reinforcement. It's important, because you'll see this when you look into the soundhole.

My gobars bend quite a bit too when they're on the braces. I use cauls, in the form of offcuts from previous builds and repairs, that I lay across a couple of braces. I put my gobars on top of them instead of trying to balance them on braces. They have much less of a tendency to take flight that way and it evens out the pressure, ensuring a good joint.

[rcnewcomb]

They have much less of a tendency to take flight

Always an exciting experience.

[BlindBo]

RC, I have a suggestion on your back strip brace, I assume you have not glued in the two back braces shown in the above picture. It appears there is not enough material above the second brace to reach the 3rd brace. You might consider carefully removing that short piece. So that you don’t have a joint in between the 2nd and 3rd brace. Then add a longer piece that will stretch from the edge of the 2nd brace to the neck block. If your other brace piece isn’t long enough, John can fix you up.
Also, most folks radius the back strip brace (requires a radiused sanding block) or at least break the sharp edges before the back braces are glued in.

If you’re talking to John, you might inquire about the headstock veneer. He is such a world of knowledge and a real asset to,this community.

[rcplanefan]

RC, I have a suggestion on your back strip brace, I assume you have not glued in the two back braces shown in the above picture. It appears there is not enough material above the second brace to reach the 3rd brace. You might consider carefully removing that short piece. So that you don’t have a joint in between the 2nd and 3rd brace. Then add a longer piece that will stretch from the edge of the 2nd brace to the neck block. If your other brace piece isn’t long enough, John can fix you up.
Also, most folks radius the back strip brace (requires a radiused sanding block) or at least break the sharp edges before the back braces are glued in.

If you’re talking to John, you might inquire about the headstock veneer. He is such a world of knowledge and a real asset to,this community.

Well, I'm stuck on jury duty this week and next. Before I left I did exactly as you suggested. I removed that short piece of back strip and when I get back (and have the appropriate go-bars), I will install the second piece so that there is no seam. It was bothering me, too. Thanks for the suggestions - please keep them coming!

[BlindBo]

Well, mine are just suggestions (and opinions). if you want real knowledge stick with the pros! 😎

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I give some input here. If you glue sections of the cross grain strips together, the joints will virtually disappear. I make up all my back strips from cut offs from my tops. Many are 3 or 4 pieces glued together. The grain widths may vary some but you won't notice them from the sound hole.so don't be afraid to just glue these sections together. Try it and you'll see.

Kevin