First kit build - Martin dred
-
- Posts: 3750
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
- Location: Visalia, CA
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Looks like you're doing a good clean job of it. That's very nice indian rosewood.
Merry Christmas
Kevin
Merry Christmas
Kevin
-
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2023 7:36 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
I have made some progress on the guitar. Tonight, I added polyester strips to the sides to prevent splitting. These are the 5/8" wide fabric strips that John recommended in place of the rosewood slats. I had hoped to buy a brown color to better match the sides, but walmart was out. So black it is - I still think it will look OK.
I also built myself a go-bar box from MDF and pipe fittings. I made the go-bars from fiberglass driveway markers, but I think they are way too stiff. They are putting extreme pressure on the back center reinforcement (I used a caul to spread the load), but I am concerned they will damage the more delicate (and taller!) braces. I likely need some thinner fiberglass, so I suppose I'll be on the hunt for those next.
I also built myself a go-bar box from MDF and pipe fittings. I made the go-bars from fiberglass driveway markers, but I think they are way too stiff. They are putting extreme pressure on the back center reinforcement (I used a caul to spread the load), but I am concerned they will damage the more delicate (and taller!) braces. I likely need some thinner fiberglass, so I suppose I'll be on the hunt for those next.
-
- Posts: 3750
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
- Location: Visalia, CA
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Look online at kite making sites. They sell fiberglass rods the right diameter for this purpose. I got mine years ago but the cost is probably still reasonable. I think they're 3/16" dia.
I since have picked up some of those heavy rods like you have there, and yes they are much stiffer but they can work well if you have them the correct length so you can wedge them in place. You don't want to squeeze out all the glue.
I since have picked up some of those heavy rods like you have there, and yes they are much stiffer but they can work well if you have them the correct length so you can wedge them in place. You don't want to squeeze out all the glue.
-
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:53 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
That is a clean looking job!
I use the go-bar deck for most of my gluing operations and love it. Check on Amazon and you can get slip on plastic tips to keep the rods from damaging the wood. They wear out pretty quickly but are cheap.
Kevin is right, it’s all about the dia. (stiffness) vs . length that creates the load. I have two different length rods. A long set for bracing and a shorter set for gluing the top and backs using radius dishes to match the curve and distribute the load. If the rods are too short for the job, I just shim up the piece with plywood until I get the load/pressure I want.
Hope this helps.
I use the go-bar deck for most of my gluing operations and love it. Check on Amazon and you can get slip on plastic tips to keep the rods from damaging the wood. They wear out pretty quickly but are cheap.
Kevin is right, it’s all about the dia. (stiffness) vs . length that creates the load. I have two different length rods. A long set for bracing and a shorter set for gluing the top and backs using radius dishes to match the curve and distribute the load. If the rods are too short for the job, I just shim up the piece with plywood until I get the load/pressure I want.
Hope this helps.
-
- Posts: 1727
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
I use the driveway markers as well. You just need to get the distance right.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
-
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2023 7:36 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Thanks for all the feedback folks. I've got some thinner fiberglass go-bars coming from John as I'm tired of hunting. In the meantime, there isn't a lot I can do, but I did make some progress.
Using the template provided in the Martin kit, I located and center-drilled for the tuners in the headstock. Pretty straightforward. I'll drill the final holes later. I assume all the left hand tuners are the same? And all the right hand tuners are the same?
I also started notching the center back strengthening strip for the cross braces and the tail block. Just used chisels and I think this is working out fine.
I don't know how much more progress I'll make before the go-bars arrive.
Using the template provided in the Martin kit, I located and center-drilled for the tuners in the headstock. Pretty straightforward. I'll drill the final holes later. I assume all the left hand tuners are the same? And all the right hand tuners are the same?
I also started notching the center back strengthening strip for the cross braces and the tail block. Just used chisels and I think this is working out fine.
I don't know how much more progress I'll make before the go-bars arrive.
-
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:53 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Again, man you do clean work!👍
Both the back of the head stock and the veneer are easy to chip if drilling by hand. Like you, I typically predrill the headstock before the veneer is glued on. Once cured, I gradually increase the diameter until I reach the final diameter. This minimizes any chipping on the veneer..I find it’s easier to do this with the headstock clamped tightly to a backing plate (veneer side down) on my workbench as opposed to jigging it on the drill press.
Keep up the good work!
Both the back of the head stock and the veneer are easy to chip if drilling by hand. Like you, I typically predrill the headstock before the veneer is glued on. Once cured, I gradually increase the diameter until I reach the final diameter. This minimizes any chipping on the veneer..I find it’s easier to do this with the headstock clamped tightly to a backing plate (veneer side down) on my workbench as opposed to jigging it on the drill press.
Keep up the good work!
-
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2023 7:36 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Thank you for the compliments. I am enjoying this so far. My kit doesn’t have a veneer for the headstock, so I will likely just drill the headstock. My Martin built D-28 also does not have a veneer so I guess that is the design.
I have 3 left hand and 3 right handed tuners. I assume the lefts and rights are all the same?
I have 3 left hand and 3 right handed tuners. I assume the lefts and rights are all the same?
-
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:53 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
Yes, 3+3 tuners are side specific, but, all 3 are the same per side. There are lots of tuner styles. Post a picture of your tuners if you’re unsure which side is which.
I’m surprised your headstock doesn’t have a veneer. It is obviously not installed in the picture you posted.
One other question, why does your back center brace stop above the second back brace instead of going to the neck block? I have never built a Martin kit so these may be just ignorant questions.
I’m surprised your headstock doesn’t have a veneer. It is obviously not installed in the picture you posted.
One other question, why does your back center brace stop above the second back brace instead of going to the neck block? I have never built a Martin kit so these may be just ignorant questions.
-
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:53 pm
Re: First kit build - Martin dred
I am visualy impaired and often miss details in photos. Just saw your tuners. Guess there’s no question which side they go on!😂