Cuban Mahogany and Lutz Spruce 00

[Danl8]

Hi Darryl,
I almost have you beat. I finished an instrument last Christmas (2013) that I had labeled in 1981, but put off finishing for a few (!) years.

BTW, I work for one of the companies that makes the biologic medicine for AAT. In fact, I spent my morning reviewing a clinical study on A-1 deficiency. Hang in there and follow your doctors advice. Finding out and doing something about it matters.

-d.

[johnnparchem]

Glad to see you back at it. Take care of those lungs maybe consider a powered face-mask filter. Z-poxy will set faster if heated. I know there are a lot of posts suggesting heating zpoxy to make it flow better, but it really is not needed. When working with room temperature zpoxy just take the time to smoosh it into the pores. The pores have air in them so it is easy to bridge the zpoxy over the pore. If you work it in well you will see little bubbles from the pores working up through the z-poxy. Only after I worked the zpoxy into the pores for close to the working time of the zpoxy do I scrape or squeegee it off. I like to work an area such that I am first seeing the air from the pores bubble through and then have the bubbles diminish. I tried warm zpoxy and it may be easier to work into the pores but I did not get better results, it took the same amount of coats and it does drip more so it is easy to make a mess with it. I went back to room temp zpoxy.

[Darryl Young]

Thanks everyone for the well wishes. To be clear, I am not over this......I'll always have it. The pullmonologist says I have mild emphesema now. This was caused by the lack of Antitrypsin protein to protect my lungs so the natural enzymes in my body have been digesting my lungs for decades. Now that I'm receiving the Alpha-1 protein in a weekly IV, the lung deteriation should stop but there is no way to restore the lung functionality I've already lost.

Thanks for your suggestions John!

[Diane Kauffmds]

I hope your treatment is going well, and you're breathing easier.

[Darryl Young]

Resurrecting my old build blog…

I’d sure like to complete this build for my daughter. Exploring lung friendly finish options. Maybe there is something out there I can work with and still protect my lungs. Appreciate any suggestions.

BTW, I moved a couple of years ago..but still have a shop though it isn’t heated/cooled and no humidity control (like my previous work shop).

[Stray Feathers]

A friend (who is also on the forum) and I heard a luthier speak at our woodworkers guild recently:

https://www.albericoguitar.com

He said he uses a Mohawk product called Pour 'n' Wipe which gives the satin finish he prefers. If I remember correctly it is a poly finish of some sort. We were both intrigued by it but I have not found any other references to its use in lutherie. So it may be water-based, and may be less volatile (I think that's one of the reasons he uses it). I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience with it too. Bruce W.

[Darryl Young]

A friend (who is also on the forum) and I heard a luthier speak at our woodworkers guild recently:

https://www.albericoguitar.com

He said he uses a Mohawk product called Pour 'n' Wipe which gives the satin finish he prefers. If I remember correctly it is a poly finish of some sort. We were both intrigued by it but I have not found any other references to its use in lutherie. So it may be water-based, and may be less volatile (I think that's one of the reasons he uses it). I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience with it too. Bruce W.

Interesting Bruce, thank you.

I read a little about this product. There is a finishing schedule at this link (4 hours dry time till scuff sand & recoat):

https://www.shellac.net/cgi-shellac/sb/ ... c6575b3d8b

[Darryl Young]

A friend (who is also on the forum) and I heard a luthier speak at our woodworkers guild recently:

https://www.albericoguitar.com

He said he uses a Mohawk product called Pour 'n' Wipe which gives the satin finish he prefers. If I remember correctly it is a poly finish of some sort. We were both intrigued by it but I have not found any other references to its use in lutherie. So it may be water-based, and may be less volatile (I think that's one of the reasons he uses it). I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience with it too. Bruce W.

Interesting Bruce, thank you.

I read a little about this product. There is a finishing schedule at this link (4 hours dry time till scuff sand & recoat):

https://www.shellac.net/cgi-shellac/sb/ ... c6575b3d8b

[Skarsaune]

I've been using Crystalac Brite Tone with pretty good results

https://www.crystalac.com/products/brit ... Fc_RnJrEn4

[Darryl Young]

Thank you skarsaune