My last Grandchild is getting a guitar

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Routing the binding channels today

The top will have maple binding with BWB purfling
The back will just be maple binding. No side purfli g lines on this one.

The routing went great. Now there is hand cutting with saw and chisels to make channels fir the binding at the heel and on top going under the fretboard. Fun? Not really but necessary.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Top binding installed and all wrapped up like a mummy. Twill tape and clamps help close up ant gaps.....hopefully.

The binding channels that go under the fretboard have to be cut by hand. Just in far enough for the fretboard to cover is all that's needed.

And with the tape, etc removed.
Next step to do the back!

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Back binding installed and scraped flush as well as the sides now scraped and sanded flush.
I have a couple small gaps to fill along back binding and sides but with rosewood they are pretty easy to fill and disguise.
The top binding thankfully looks nice and tight...no gaps.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Well I made and glued on an Indian rosewood heel cap.
Then I began carving the heel. I have the heel portion basically shaped now and I've taken down the neck flush with the fretboard and carved the volutes to transition into the fretboard.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

We now have a carved neck.....mostly.
I'll still do some final sanding when I pore fill. Nice to have this part done.

[TEETERFAN]

Really inspiring to see you craft all these instruments. Such nice work. You already have me interested in making a violin, and now a classical guitar may be in my future. Additionally, it is really a special thing you are doing for your grandchildren and heartwarming to see. I appreciate your sharing your work with all of us.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Thanks Kevin
I wrote a whole paragraph but once again when I went to post it the sign on screen popped up again and I lost what I wrote. So discouraging.

I now have the bridge made. EIR. Only the tie block holes left to be drilled

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I finished the bridge, pore filled the B & S using endgrain EIR sawdust and shellac, and the neck using Spanish cedar sawdust and shellac. Hand rubbed into the pores.

I did 4 applications on the rosewood, one coat and sanded back each time. Invoked like I got a the pores filled.

I did 3 applications on the neck. It looked good.

I'm doing a wiped on Tru Oil finish. I started that today.
After 2 coats I can see some pores showing on the rosewood. Isn't this how it always goes????

I'll just keep going with the Tru Oil. Eventually the pores will fill.

I will rub out what's on the guitar once it's dry (after about 2 hours) with 0000 steel wool. Then I'll blow it off and wipe it down with Naptha and do another 2 coats and repeat with the steel wool.
When I have a filled smooth surface, then I'll start building coats with about 2 hours dry time between coats.
These are very thin layers. I'll build up to a out 30 or more before I'm done. I want flat and level with no pores showing. So this will happen over about a weeks time.
I'll put up a pic of the guitar with the 2 coats in a bit.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Okay so I'm about done with the Tru Oil application.
I'm reasonably pleased. It's not lacquer, flat and highly polished like what I'm used to, but for my second guitar with this oil I'm learning what might work and what might not work so well.

The pores are all now filled. I'm at 30 very thin coats on the top and about 22 on the back and sides.

I did some 0000 steel wooling along the way which does smooth thing out but....it does leave those scratches and if your going for a polished looking scratch free surface then I don't recommend using any steel wool.

At one point I did wet sand with the grain with 800 grit to level things but very quickly went through the coats in some areas. this was okay since I was going to apply many more coats anyway.

So what I'm going for now is a final wiped on coat and let it dry......done. This leaves a shiney finish although not at all lacquer like.

In the hands of a 10 year old I think it's going to be fine.

I'll try it again at some point but will not use any steel wool or even less than say 1000 grit dry sanded before applying some final coats just to fill those scratches and end up Shiney.

I'll evaluate this one in the morning and will probably call it done. Then about a week dry time, glue on the bridge, level the frets and recrown, install a nut and the tuners and Bob's your Uncle.

[Stray Feathers]

What a lovely gift-from your own two hands! Good on you for trying different finishes. I started with a couple of water base finishes, then tried lacquer and have not tried anything else since. Bruce W.