First build-Blues Creek custom Ziricote

[TEETERFAN]

Finished tinting the stark white body purling to better match the ivoroid binding. I started by masking off the ivoroid binding, pearl, and wood. Like the headstock, I sprayed on multiple coats of slightly tinted clear, until it matched the ivoroid or slightly darker. When dry, I removed a bit of the masking to compare things better. I sanded the areas that were a bit dark with 5000 grit, until I got a visual match. This is much easier than trying to match while I am spraying.I remasked and applied a few lights coats of untinted clear, which will protect the tinting. My next step will be to touch up any imperfections with a 000 artist’s brush and add a few more coats of clear. As mentioned before, I will french polish all body wood with button shellac.

[TEETERFAN]

Well, I am back to guitar build after the holidays, travel, and an unexpected home improvement project.
After honestly evaluating my top binding, I decided to redo it. I had overrounded the ivoroid, compared to the back. I called John and ordered new ivoroid and b/w/b, replacing all from the pearl out (top and side). Luckily, I didn’t have to redo any pearl work!
So I now have things looking much better. Not that much extra work and the new binding material was inexpensive. I learned to really compare all things when rounding the binding and work real slow. I am glad I corrected the binding, while not that noticeable, it would have drove me nuts. I imagine you builders that use wood binding have to really be careful. On to french polishing!

[TEETERFAN]

Summer projects are consuming my time a lot, but the tedious french polishing continues. The ziricote grain is looking better and better.

[TEETERFAN]

Hey guys, I’m curious how you like to finish ebony fingerboards. I’ve read about sanding, buffing, treating with various things, oils , cyanoacrylate, ect. And how does Martin finish theirs? I can find lots of info online, but I’m looking for your personal experience with the various methods, results, and how things look over time. Thanks!

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Kevin
I like to sand down to 400 grit then 0000 steel wool. After installing the frets, all leveled sanded etc. I put some Dr. Ducks oil on there. A little bit, rubbed around, let sit a bit and wipe off any extra. Then just polish with a cotton rag when it's dry. I've done this to at least the last 16 fretboards. Later if showing dryness then coat again. I do the same on my bridges, both ebony and EIR.

Kevin

[Kevin Sjostrand]

By the way your fretboard looks awesome!!!

[TEETERFAN]

Thanks Kevin. Is that the “Dr. Duck's Ax Wax and String Lube”?

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Yes. In a bottle. Not really a wax, liquid

[TEETERFAN]

Be a while since my last update. I am currently enrolled in “French Polishing University”. Ha! That’s one way of saying I have been learning a whole bunch about the process and have had to do and redo things a few times. Main problem was the darker amber button shellac had a bit of opacity, which slightly obscured the ziricote grain. It looked crystal clear in the glass jar after I mixed it, so I am a bit puzzled why I got the result I did (it does look real nice on my torrefied soundboard). Anyway, I stripped it all off and started over with a blonde flake shellac, which is looking much better.

Meantime, I decided to redo my neck. The finish on it was stain topped with clear nitrocellulose. It ended up a little darker than I wanted. At the time, it didn’t bother me too much, but it continued to annoy me. With the extra time my french polishing of the body is taking, I decided to strip the neck and do it over.
Overall, I am pleased that I am learning and getting better results. Doing things over is painful, but I am glad I did. I know its the right approach, but dang, I am wanting to play this critter!