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Will soon be done finishing the guitar so starting to think about attaching the bridge.
One of the ways recommended in Don Cory's book is to use a "bridge clamp".
He recommends the "Super Simple Bridge Clamp" from Kenneth Michael Guitars and the "Fox Bridge Clamp" from LMI.
Looks like the "Fox Bridge Clamp" is the only one currently available.
Looks like a very simple and effective way to do it vs special sound hole clamps, special bridge clamp jigs, cauls etc.
Also a lot less expensive.

Does anyone have experience with the Fox Bridge Clamp and would this be a good way to go?

Thanks
Scamp

If you want a fox bridge clamp, you'll find a lot of them on ebay, much cheaper than LMII.

I use cam clamps. Kenneth Michael passed away a couple of years ago. You can search, but last I saw, his shop site no longer exists.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304550335470?m ... media=COPY

I used a fox style clamp at 1st. it is easy to use and clamps well but I had trouble getting it on and tightened down quickly when using hot hide glue so switched to 3 cam clamps through the sound hole. Timing won't be an issue if you are using titebond.

you need 3 clamps and a caul under the bridge

tippie53 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 12, 2022 6:06 pm you need 3 clamps and a caul under the bridge

Is there a reason you recommend the three clamps and a caul vs the fox bridge clamp? Just interested why.

Also… any recommendations for appropriate clamps and cauls?

You need even pressure. The top has a radius, and the bridge wings are thinner. Use 1 clamp on center, then one on each end to apply ample pressure, and to push the wings down. You need a caul on the inside because you need to clear the x-brace.

You can clamp much faster with cams than the fox clamp. You can make cam clamps if you want; it's not difficult. Stewmac's new style of cam clamps is nice. They're made to clear the x-brace (you still need a caul). As far as a caul, just cut a piece of wood.

Stewmac calls these "mini" cam clamps, but they're an excellent size for all bridge placement, except a 12-fret neck on a slope shoulder; for that you need longer clamps.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-a ... gQAvD_BwE

Nice clamp, but twenty-five bucks plus shipping?

phavriluk wrote: ↑Wed Jul 13, 2022 10:29 am Nice clamp, but twenty-five bucks plus shipping?

Agree. I had a big coupon when I ordered, plus they were cheaper a couple of years ago. I think anyone that's so inclined, could make their own.

Thanks. Very helpful. I’ll probably just buy the Stewmac mini cam clamps. They seem perfect for the job and at this point in for a penny, in for a pound. I already have a caul for the bridge plate inside the guitar ( I made it when I put the braces on the top ). It looks like these clamps have cork on them so I won’t need a protective caul on the bridge itself. Perfect.

let me explain something
these bridge clamps are ok but they assume all bridges are the same Few allow for tapered pin holes the few that have a small caul under the bridge plate allow top flexing and can distort the top. I have them even designed one and went back to 3 6 in deep throat clamps.
May caul fits under the top , goes over the braces and allows for the bridge plate so you don't have to worry about over torquing the top.
It is easy to warp the top with these so be carful.