Semi-hollow kit neck fit
Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 5:59 pm
Hi,
I'm new to guitars and guitar building. I purchased a semi-hollow kit so that I can practice without driving my wife nuts in our open floorplan house. As I am struggling with Yankee Doodle, I would like to produce an instrument that will play well now and that will sound good when I finally become proficient.
As seen in the attached composite image, the neck has some tear-out on one side, requires sanding to fit, and lastly some voids on one side of the body at the neck joint need attention. Although I did not gauge or chalk the neck to verify bearing surface contact, the neck fit feels solid.
After ruminating and surfing to pick up what information my noggin can absorb, I have formed a general plan of attack:
1. for the neck tear-out I have 4 options: do nothing and glue in with Titebond, fill with a paste made with maple sawdust and Titebond, fill with a water-soluble filler (TImbermate), or fill in with a solvent filler (Dap Plasticwood). I'm leaning towards the Titebond/sawdust and the Timbermate options.
2. to fit the neck, sand down the proud banding at neck joint and possibly the base of the body neck cavity to have the fretboard contact the body. In sanding the body neck cavity I am planning on making a long block to attach fine (220) sandpaper to only the underside and another jig to maintain the cavity angle. I should be able to get a solid fit with removing about 0.050 in.
3. for the gap on the top which will be hidden by the fretboard, fill the void using one of the techniques listed under item 1 above.
4. for the gap in the mahogany/binding in the cutaway, I saw John's video on fixing finishes and I will give it a try here. I plan on using mahogany Timbermate tinted with stain for the body underside grain filler. I plan on finishing with Tru-Oil. Depending on the depth, I would start with Timbermate, then top with a mix of Tru-Oil and sawdust generated during pore filling. If it doesn't work out I can always finish with a solid color.
5. for the top I plan on popping the grain with TransTint antique maple and top with Tru-Oil.
Please take a look at the photos and let me know if I'm moving in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions,
I'm new to guitars and guitar building. I purchased a semi-hollow kit so that I can practice without driving my wife nuts in our open floorplan house. As I am struggling with Yankee Doodle, I would like to produce an instrument that will play well now and that will sound good when I finally become proficient.
As seen in the attached composite image, the neck has some tear-out on one side, requires sanding to fit, and lastly some voids on one side of the body at the neck joint need attention. Although I did not gauge or chalk the neck to verify bearing surface contact, the neck fit feels solid.
After ruminating and surfing to pick up what information my noggin can absorb, I have formed a general plan of attack:
1. for the neck tear-out I have 4 options: do nothing and glue in with Titebond, fill with a paste made with maple sawdust and Titebond, fill with a water-soluble filler (TImbermate), or fill in with a solvent filler (Dap Plasticwood). I'm leaning towards the Titebond/sawdust and the Timbermate options.
2. to fit the neck, sand down the proud banding at neck joint and possibly the base of the body neck cavity to have the fretboard contact the body. In sanding the body neck cavity I am planning on making a long block to attach fine (220) sandpaper to only the underside and another jig to maintain the cavity angle. I should be able to get a solid fit with removing about 0.050 in.
3. for the gap on the top which will be hidden by the fretboard, fill the void using one of the techniques listed under item 1 above.
4. for the gap in the mahogany/binding in the cutaway, I saw John's video on fixing finishes and I will give it a try here. I plan on using mahogany Timbermate tinted with stain for the body underside grain filler. I plan on finishing with Tru-Oil. Depending on the depth, I would start with Timbermate, then top with a mix of Tru-Oil and sawdust generated during pore filling. If it doesn't work out I can always finish with a solid color.
5. for the top I plan on popping the grain with TransTint antique maple and top with Tru-Oil.
Please take a look at the photos and let me know if I'm moving in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions,