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What kind of glue do you use to glue on the fingerboard? I am contemplating hot hide glue, but I'm concerned about my ability to spread that much glue quickly enough so I can get the parts together before the glue gels. Has anybody done this successfully? How did you do it?

I've not used HHG for a FB, only fish glue and Titebond Original. I would think though if you have your locating pins in place and heat the FB up to give you a little extra open time you shouldn't have a problem. Just slop it on, it cleans up easy (that may not be the best advice):)

HHG works for me without trouble. A brush with more capacity and the glue pot well-positioned in the case of fingerboards, but havent really thought much about FB gluing being different. Since starting with guitars in the past year, I did try the stuff that comes in a bottle, old brown, but heated that, too. Tim's advice on pre-heating and using pins is helpful.

If the FE lies nicely on the top, consider just a small spot of glue out near the soundhole to keep it from buzzing. It will do the job and be easy to get off regardless of what kind of glue you use.

Ed

Well, in the end I didn't have the the confidence to try the hot hide glue. I used Titebond instead. Maybe by the time at this stage on my 2nd guitar I'll feel confident enough to use hhg.

That's all I've used on my boards (except a couple with fish glue) and no one is complaining.

with the amount of glue on the joint of the fretboard , I think about any glue will do well. I have used fish HHG and tite bond red ( original ) they all do the job

when I glue the neck on I am going with Fish glue. Also on the extension I just use a thin line along the edges and a drop just above the sound hole. There is no need to glue it all over. Gibsons used just a dab on the fretboard and I have not seen them crack along the fretboard line like I see Martin.

That crack is often a result of shrinkage differential not rotational stress.

tippie53 wrote:That crack is often a result of shrinkage differential not rotational stress.

Interesting.

I used to think it was the forward shear that caused this but I have seen so many the were partial cracks and then noticing that Martin is the major sight of these. Gibson s seldom show this failure. That got me to thinking , John Arnold pointed this out and he also suggest that the shrinkage differential was to blame and I agree.

tippie53 wrote:I used to think it was the forward shear that caused this but I have seen so many the were partial cracks and then noticing that Martin is the major sight of these. Gibson s seldom show this failure. That got me to thinking , John Arnold pointed this out and he also suggest that the shrinkage differential was to blame and I agree.

This would argue for only using Gibson's dab or a glue line only along the top center-line joint ? Does this obviate the need for the wide brace under the FB extension?