www.KitGuitarsForum.com

I'm fixing to glue the top of my Stew Mac dred to the rims. The tail block is the same height as the rim and is glued flush to the rim, so while the kerfing and rims are sanded to the correct angle, the tail block is unsanded and remains at 90 deg. It seems that when the top is glued on, the change in angle from the kerfing to the tail block would show through.

Should I resand the entire rim so that I can sand down the top of the tail block to match the kerfing? I'm also considering gluing a piece of veneer to the top of the tail block and sanding the correct angle to the top of the tail block instead of sanding the entire rim. I presume this is a critical attachment point so I don't want to screw it up. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Mitch

I like the shim on the tail block rather than sanding the whole rim down to match low tail block. It is correct that you want this to match the kerfed linings.

On the tail block the angle is about dead square. This is not a constant angle . From the tail block on the back the angle will change from about square to 5 degree. The top is a minor angle and is changing.

John, are you saying to leave the tail block square and flush to the rim, and then sand the kerfing adjacent to the tail block so it is an even transition to the tail block?

Mitch

Yes
Here is a tip to help you get a better transfer angle on the kerfing. First the stew mac instructions are not 100% accurate . They are more designed to help a 1st time to get through the process.

In the center of the guitar place a block the same height of the tail end of the guitar. Now sand using this as a central reference. This will adjust the angle around the body so that the radius of the back will conform better to the kerfing.
On the top make a sanding stick and sand the tail block flush to the side , then place a block about 3/8 thick on the tail block. Mark the rim with chalk about 4 in from the neck block toward the sound hole and sand true , this will create the neck angle to mate with the sides to help control the plane for the fretboard do you don't get that hump.
That is about all there is to it.

tippie53 wrote:On the top make a sanding stick and sand the tail block flush to the side , then place a block about 3/8 thick on the tail block. ... this will create the neck angle to mate with the sides to help control the plane for the fretboard so you don't get that hump.

I was wondering about that. The neck block and neck in the kit came cut to "complementary" angles so no hump should form. But when I started to sand with the stick, I noticed that I was changing the angle of the neck block and I immediately stopped. I think the shim should tilt the stick up enough to the correct angle.

Thanks again

Mitch

Sure
if you need to call feel free