Hi all - I am finally diving into this kit building world. I have lurked on some forums for a while doing research and gaining insight. I have been pleasantly surprised at how open the experienced luthiers are and how helpful they are to beginners. I did not expect that when I started looking into this.
Before I ask my question I should also note that I have only a little basic woodworking experience. So this foray into guitar building is also a way to expand into woodworking too. But that also means my understanding of some things is limited.
So I ordered a mahogany dreadnaught kit and mold from martin and I started putting things together using what Ive gleaned here and from Bill Cory's book. One thing I noticed when I glued on the tail block was that it is not as tall as some were saying it would be. Rather than taller than the rim it was a bit short, so I made it flush with the top. I am going to tackle the neck block tonight and the kerfing tomorrow, but some of what I have read on the subject confuses me. How much higher than the rim should the neck block (with dovetail) be? and what the heck is radiusing and what is its purpose?
Thanks for bearing with my dumb questions!
Finally the first
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Re: Finally the first
There is a lot of geometry on a guitar rim to help the top support the completed action height.
Here is a vid to help you. As the fretboard needs to come on the top at an angle for the proper action height. Martin kits are not trued , so you need to do this. Martin does it in the factory once the rims are glued up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrgRKKsxL-M
this shows the process I use to help establish the geometry , you are shooting for a 1/2 string height , 3/8 bridge 1/8 saddle. You want the fretboard to be straight as possible as it comes on the top from the neck.
never be afraid to ask questions
we are here to help
Here is a vid to help you. As the fretboard needs to come on the top at an angle for the proper action height. Martin kits are not trued , so you need to do this. Martin does it in the factory once the rims are glued up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrgRKKsxL-M
this shows the process I use to help establish the geometry , you are shooting for a 1/2 string height , 3/8 bridge 1/8 saddle. You want the fretboard to be straight as possible as it comes on the top from the neck.
never be afraid to ask questions
we are here to help
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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Re: Finally the first
John: Nice to see you addressing this part of the building process with the beginners. So many new folks dash off building the box without understanding the relationship between it and the neck. Then they are puzzeled as to why the neck does not fit right. I see this on all the building forums. How the neck, body,and bridge relate to each other depends mainly on how the top is made and attached to the sides.Good work. Keep driving the point home.
Tom
Tom
" A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything "
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Re: Finally the first
Will do Tom. It is about the details of the geometry.
You don't know what you don't know till you know it
You don't know what you don't know till you know it
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 4:13 pm
Re: Finally the first
Thanks guys! John's videos really help me visualize it now.
I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way, but I am really appreciative to have you all as a reference.
I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way, but I am really appreciative to have you all as a reference.